BISTRO ask three chefs at three Aussie pubs to share with us their views on how best to keep the flame of the Sunday roast alive.

For deep down, whether we are alone or in company, participating in this Sunday forum is as old as the gospels themselves and just as benevolent! A Sunday roast makes us feel at home with the company of mankind as much as with the company we may choose to sit next to. With so much expectation riding on this rustic yet simplistic convention, we ask three chefs at three Aussie pubs to share with us their views on how best to keep the flame of the Sunday roast alive.

The Four in Hand, Paddington (Sydney)

Head Chef, Colin Fassnidge, offers roasts “During our winter season,” he says, “and we use lots of braises along with lighter feminine dishes to balance the heartiness.” The Four in Hand’s bar menu includes Wagyu Corned Beef, 12-hour-cooked Beef Cheeks, Braised Lamb Shoulder, and Roasted Pork Belly ($18). So how does a pub make money from $18 roasts? “We have a fine dining restaurant (SMH 16/20) attached to the bar,” Fassnidge explains, “and use similar products in both kitchens. This eliminates waste and means we can buy whole animals and use different parts for different dishes, which is more economical.” What is ‘a must’ for a good Sunday roast we ask him. “Good quality meat, seasonal vegetables, and SEASONING! We also use specially-made boards to serve the roast on, which makes our customers feel a bit special.”

Stanley Pub, Stanley (Victoria)

With a growing reputation as a food destination, the Stanley is just 10km up the hill from Beechworth in Northeast Victoria, and has an exciting menu. Head Chef, Ludo Baulacky, tells us about adapting the menu to suit the locale: “Our customers are a mix of locals, regional visitors, and tourists,” he explains, “who are looking for a food and wine experience. I cook many of the dishes sous vide which is all about slow cooking foods ‘under vacuum’ to create sublime tastes and textures.”

The Stanley offers an intriguing ‘Roast Collection’ ($38), in conjunction with the ‘Put Victoria on Your Table’ initiative this month is: Wooragee Free Range Pork: roasted pork belly, pigs head croquette, and Ballotine of pork leg and shoulder. We ask what processes are behind the qualities of this dish? “Different parts of the animal have very different tastes and textures. The idea is for the customer to experience as much of the pig on the plate as possible— including head, brains, ears, and trotters. The opportunity to source free range suckling pig handpicked by Olivia Johnstone of Wooragee Quality Free Range Pork was a deciding factor.”

“The head—including brain and ears— is turned into the croquette, and the belly is slow-roasted for 10 hours and pressed. The leg is opened and flattened, then rolled and cooked sous vide. One of the most important parts of roasting is the SEASONING.”

We ask what tips Baulacky might have for others preparing such a detailed dish? “As this is a very complex dish,” he tells us, “starting from butchering the pig to preparing each component, you must work meticulously. My two main tips would be to season food as you go – every step of the dish, taste and season as you cook— and timing is also critical.”

It appears that the best tip to keep the flame of the traditional Sunday roast alive, then, lies in the SEASONING first and foremost, overnight marinating, stuffing served on the side, slow roasting— and a fancy plate where possible. Oh, and a whole animal gets you the juicy cuts!

The Coopers Hotel, Newtown (Sydney)

Karen McPherson completed her chef’s apprenticeship in Scotland working within large hotel groups, and her travels eventually led her to Sydney where she has worked for several restaurants and up-market hotels including Radisson and Four Seasons.

“The Coopers,” she explains, “is in the heart of Newtown with a diverse range of customers so I design a varied menu to suit all tastes, and offer quality meals at good-value prices. It’s up-market but casual.”

Having grown up in the UK, McPherson employs her Scottish background to turn her roasts into a special fare with Yorkshire pudding and the like. “In the UK,” she points out, “the Sunday roast is not just a meal, but a time the whole family goes out to a restaurant to enjoy dinner.

“Our roast beef is marinated overnight in Dijon mustard and our chickens in sea salt and rosemary to create that real ‘UK’ roast experience that our customers have come to love. The real secret, though, is the stuffing. We serve it alongside the meat and it is hand-made using only fresh ingredients.”

With Newtown’s passing trade and no bookings required, we wonder how the Coopers estimate their food requirements? “We take in a variety of factors, such as bookings, regular clientele, and the weather,” McPherson explains, “In winter it’s a good guess that the majority will order Sunday roast, and we always over-cater to ensure we don’t run out, although wastage is minimal. We can incorporate some meats into other dishes too, for example, roast beef can be used as a base for a Thai beef salad.”