Daniel Fountain started in the trade as a kitchen hand – or, as he says, “a dish pig, as us chefs call them”. He adds: “That’s where most good chefs start.” This statement couldn’t be any truer in his case. After 20-plus years in the biz, he now has the prestigious title of executive chef for the J&J O’Brien hoteliers group.
J&J O’Brien owns a number of stunning bars, restaurants and venues in Sydney, including The Belvedere Hotel, Jordons Seafood Restaurant, The Watershed Hotel, and the luxe Blue Diamond Charters (the latter being a stylish, 62-foot cruiser, available for exclusive charters including breakfast, lunch and dinner cruises).
Last year, Fountain was named the AHA National Chef of the Year for his former role as head chef at Darling Harbour’s Watershed Hotel (now, he manages no less than seven venues for J&J O’Brien).
It’s all a long way from his start in the trade, training at TAFE NSW’s Sydney Institute East Sydney College and undertaking an apprenticeship with Black Knight Catering.
Fountain has been the group executive chef at J&J O’Brien for more than a year now and has also previously worked for the ANA Hotel Sydney and The Grace Hotel.
BISTRO spoke to him about his passion for food.
Please tell us about yourself.
I am a very hard, dedicated worker, enjoy many sporting activities, love my wine – which is why I love cooking! – and, I have to say, I love to entertain, at home or at work. I have been in the business for over 22 years.
You’re managing a few different venues. What are the challenges you have to face doing this job?
Actually, I manage seven properties, but I’m just acting on six. Time – I wish I had more time everyday! I need another day to get the work done. Every day is a new challenge – just to make sure each kitchen runs smoothly and to have the right staff is the hardest part. But, overall, each venue is so different; it’s the thrill to get them right. The adrenalin rush and the thrill of making the business run right is what keeps me going.
What dishes, in your opinion, are a ‘must’ on the pub menu, and why?
People love comfort food. That’s why it’s called comfort food – it makes the customer happy to eat it. Every venue is different, so it’s hard to keep up with trends and with people’s likes, loves, hates and dislikes. I hate serving some comfort food, but if it makes people happy, then that’s what we do!
How does the bar/pub menu differ from regular restaurant?
Well, I would have to differ on that question. I am trying hard to make pub food as good as restaurant food, but all my fellow chefs – no matter where they work – are always trying to excel to make their style of food better than the next. That’s how the trends are created.
You are looking after The Watershed Hotel in waterfront Darling Harbour and the Marlborough Hotel in artsy Newtown – very different venues in terms of location and clientele. How does this manifest on the menu?
You have to create a menu with what the customer wants and how it interacts within the area. The Watershed is very tourist-driven, while the Marlborough attracts a very local or young trade.
In your opinion, what are the common mistakes chefs make when designing a menu?
They don’t research their clientele or ask questions. Some chefs think they know it all. Myself? I am always learning and will never say I am the best chef – no one is. All chefs are good at certain things.
How often do you review the dishes on the menu?
Every day. You have to do it or you fall behind and risk the chance of losing customers.
What is the process of putting a new dish on the menu?
Talking to the whole kitchen brigade – I involve the whole team: managers, chefs, apprentices and kitchen hands. Someone will have an idea to make something better. Then, we rough draft, cost it, practice the dish until we are satisfied, and then serve it to the customer.
How do you keep food consistent across five different kitchens?
It is very hard and is a consistent nightmare but, at the end of the day, it gets done. It’s like a revolving door – each day brings a new problem to solve.
What was the last decision or change you made, where you said to yourself “well done, Daniel”?
My intuition in my kitchens is to make a family attitude amongst my team and also to make them feel wanted – they work better. Better staff morale is important. So, I would say that if my staff is happy with what they do, I am happy, and then, that keeps the boss happy.
How do you keep your skills current?
Research, talk to customers, and talk to my staff, because a lot of them are from (diverse) back grounds.
Most memorable meal last year, and why?
I was on a trip away and I love to fish. I caught a lovely bream that was about 1.2kg, so I cleaned it up and pan-fried it with some white wine, herbs and seasoning. The meat was so delicate, sweet and tasty… Oh, bugger it! Any food I eat is good ‘cause most of the time I cook it! (Yes, it’s true – a chef that cooks at home. I love it!)

BISTRO, May 2010

The highest proportion being in the middle to older age bracket (peaking at 65 to 74 years for men and 55 to 64 years for women). For children, there was a significant increase in those considered obese – from 5.2 per cent in 1995 to 7.8 per cent in 2007/8. Obesity among boys, particularly, had doubled.
With such startling statistics, it’s no wonder that many Australians have felt encouraged to review their own dining habits. Eating healthier foods – rather than strict dieting – seems to be the trend for people wanting to battle the bulge.
Interestingly, the younger generation is a leading force in this trend. A recent survey showed that Gen-Y diners would more likely eat lunch at a restaurant on weekdays if there was a wider choice of healthy menu options available.
All this, of course, is having some impact on restaurants, with chefs listening to customers and tweaking their menus to suit. More than would have been the case even three years ago, there is now often a variety of salads and grilled options on pub bistro menus.
BISTRO spoke to Nathan Thompson, the head chef at Zedbar in NSW’s Albury, about serving up nutritious – and tasty – fare. (The venue won ‘Best Bar Presentation and Service – Country’ at the national AHA Awards for Excellence last year.)
Keeping it simple
Thompson, who has been in the industry for nine years, says, firstly, it’s important to have pub food staples on the menu. “As long as you have Parmis and steaks, you can’t go wrong. Simple as they are, people want to come to a pub for food that they understand and recognise – not to have to bring an encyclopedia just to read the menu!”
At the same time though, Zedbar also has a wide range of healthy dishes, including six salads (comprising protein-rich items like chicken, beef, lamb and cheese, meaning these can also work as lighter-style mains), as well as grilled and vegetarian options.
Zedbar’s salads have great value as they incorporate different types of lettuces, plus yummy and vitamins and nutrient-rich avocadoes, sun-dried tomatoes, capsicum and eggplant.
Many of the dishes on the varied menu also come with creative dressings to add zest, like Japanese dipping mayonnaise, orange and cumin vinaigrette, lime and capsicum dressing, and chardonnay cream sauce.

Why it’s important
Thompson says having healthy fare on the menu reflects customer desires. “These days, people are a lot more aware of food and want to know more about it. They are becoming more health-focused, and so, the food that we do is aimed at enticing those people.”
The chef says the popularity of healthy items tends to change with the seasons, such as salads being favoured in summer. “We try to go with the seasons with our menus, so that it gives our customers something new to look forward to and also to ‘mix it up’ in the kitchen, so that the chefs don’t get stuck in a repetitive rut,” Thompson enthuses.

Healthy on the pocket
BISTRO had one burning question to put to Thompson – does having a wide choice of healthy options on the menu cost any extra in the kitchen?
Fortunately, Thompson shook his head. “No, it doesn’t. You actually save money. By using fresh, healthy ingredients, we save money on pre-done items. It is better for our customers as they appreciate things like home-made sauces. And, it also saves on prep-time (with fresh meals made quickly and grilling an easy method), which means more time to ‘prep’ for other things – or cleaning the kitchen!”
So, as you can see, providing healthy options really does make sense – for a venue’s budget, in attracting diverse clientele, and contributing to overall health in society. And, as Thompson has shown, thinking healthy is not just about throwing a bunch of leaves on the side of a plate, like an afterthought. Customers are yearning for nutritious dishes, which are tasty and show flair. So, why not deliver?

BISTRO, May 2010

There are many reasons why enticing bar menus are worth their while – they can help a venue appeal to a diverse clientele, increase drink sales and add to the atmosphere. Patrons attracted by bar menus may range from those simply wanting to meet and have a drink before moving on to the night’s entertainment, to those who are happy to eat a full meal at the bar and stay and socialise.
Bar menu fare can also attract a younger, less moneyed crowd, who are not keen on a formal dining experience – though their patronage can still be hugely profitable for a venue.
Aside from spicy and salty food that encourages customers to drink more, bar menus can also generate drink sales by suggesting the right glass of wine or cocktail with a ‘bite to eat’. And, menus littered with appetisers may encourage multiple ordering of food.
As well, people always love the good, old-fashioned pub staples, like hamburgers and hot chips. And, having such a variety of price points will ensure anyone who walks through the door will be able to eat there.
What a venue serves, of course, will be dependent on its location and customer profile. But, one thing’s for sure – in the same way as a martini menu, a bar menu should be fun, creative and unique. And, it should complement – not fight – with the dinner menu.
BISTRO spoke to Matt Fuller, the head chef of Adelaide’s Highway Hotel (also known as ‘HWY’), on how enticing bar menus can be win-win. The hotel was the winner of the best outdoor or non-enclosed facility at the 2009 AHA National Awards for Excellence. The venue’s diverse areas include a lounge, beer garden, bistro and sports bar. It also has a lively events schedule, including fashion parades and movie nights.

Attracting a diverse clientele
Fuller says having a varied bar menu and dining styles helps to attract a diversity of customers. “We have a strong corporate crowd during the week over lunch, evenings bring families and couples, while weekends see a lot of large groups eating in the bistro and outside.”
Different age groups are also catered to. “We offer a children’s menu, catering for those up to 12 years old, and a senior’s menu, available to anyone who holds a Seniors Card. All meals offered on these menus are smaller in size and priced to suit each demographic.” Fuller adds: “Aside from these menus, we also offer a range of meals on our a la carte menu aimed at different age groups, from fried lamb brains to schnitzels. I reckon most people find what they’re after!”
A big part of the HWY menu is the smaller dishes, like pizzas and share plates, which gives its customers the option of eating at the bar, if so desired. Fuller says: “Both (the bistro and bar) areas hold their own and we want to continue to cater for them both. We also feel food brings people together, which is why we have so many shared casual items.” (The pizzas are always in the top five of the casual part of the hotel’s menu.)
As Fuller says, “I love the idea of walking into a bar or bistro and being able to graze on different foods while enjoying a bottle of great red wine or a few beers with my mates. The ‘bits and bites’, salads, breads and sides sections of our menu serve that purpose and have proven to be popular.”
And, one dining option isn’t better than the other in terms of quality, according to Fuller. “We have tried to maintain the same menu in both our bistro and bar areas, allowing guests the flexibility to choose their dining experience. To achieve this, we feel the food offering shouldn’t change – just the service style and surroundings.”
Changing with the seasons
The HWY’s menu is reviewed every three months as the seasons change, which Fuller says is vital in keeping things fresh. And, it’s a real team effort putting a new dish on the menu, according to the head chef. “The owner and the general manager like to get involved, which I find really helpful as they have both been around the block and have a good understanding of what will work.” Fuller continues: “Once they have had their input, I then design a menu that takes into consideration seasonal produce available, how it will work in regards to timing in the kitchen, and whether we can get it on the plate for a decent cost! It’s a long process but a good chance to get creative.”
Having unusual and inspired items on the menu, like fried lamb brains and slow-roasted garlic pizza, also sets the hotel fare apart from other venues. “I draw inspiration from years of travelling and eating all over the world, magazines I see, and others around me,” Fuller confides. “I might see a dish presented in an interesting way, which leads me to look at the ingredients and think about how I can mix it up to make it different. I will often take an old recipe idea, strip it down and re-build it with a modern twist, and end up with a good, honest dish.”

Good, honest food
Ensuring the HWY menu remains well-priced is a careful balancing act, according to Fuller. “I spend a lot of time sourcing fresh, local produce at the best price. The sheer quantity of food we go through helps reduce the price we pay. In turn, this is passed on to our guests. We have a bunch of awesome suppliers, who love hearing about my next idea and different ways of using their product.”
Fuller continues: “Talking from a ‘cost of goods’ position, we maintain a fairly consistent (profit margin) on each dish. Part of delivering honest food is delivering it at an honest price. If I get a great deal from a supplier, I pass that on to our guests.”
Despite a lot of different items on the menu, Fuller says he’s still able to manage the labour component in the kitchen. “It’s all about having a strong, well-trained team and ensuring that when I’m designing a menu, I take into consideration the amount of dishes coming from each area.”
The hotel uses a quote from the late US chef James Beard to sum up its fare: “I don’t like gourmet cooking or ‘this’ cooking or ‘that’ cooking. I like good cooking.” Indeed, it suits the venue’s style, which takes pride in plating good, honest food – and not worrying about what the place down the road is doing.

BISTRO, May 2010