Beef cuts
Lamb cuts

Going green

From pop-up restaurants to rooftop gardens, the restaurant scene is turning eco.

Pop-up restaurants have surged in popularity in Australia in recent years, having already been successful overseas for a decade or more.

As the name suggests, the concept behind pop-up restaurants is exactly that – they pop up, remain operational for a period of days or weeks and disappear again as quickly as they were set up.

As the phenomenon becomes more widely spread a new wave of restaurants is set to take the dining world by storm – by ‘going green’ and encouraging all of us to be more mindful of how we impact on the environment every day.

And, pop-up restaurants certainly seem a good place to start – with non-permanent infrastructure they have less impact on the environment from the word go, with a low carbon footprint and increasingly conscientious ways of sourcing, preparing and serving food they seem to be leading the way.

Greenhouse, a restaurant concept initially conceived by Dutch-born artist and environmentalist Joost Bakker is at the forefront. And it has also managed to make the switch from pop-up to permanent without losing any of its environmental integrity.

As co-owner of the Greenhouse restaurant in Perth, Paul Aron states they were drawn to going ‘green’ for their restaurant as: “Hospitality can be a very wasteful industry, so what better place to start?” And, it seems, that philosophy has paid off.

In 2008, the original Greenhouse by Joost was constructed in Melbourne’s Federation Square. The temporary restaurant was constructed entirely of sustainable and recycled materials and was open between November 2008 and January 2009. It attracted 1000 visitors per day and the attention of the global media.

Hot on the heels of this success, the concept moved west with a permanent restaurant, Greenhouse St Georges Terrace, opening in Perth in December 2009. This restaurant has since gone from strength to strength, being awarded Restaurant of the Year in Perth in 2010 and attracting between 800 to 1000 visitors each day.

Aron feels that one of the main selling points for their restaurant is that “the customers are fascinated by the building design which is definitely a drawcard.” He also goes on to say that as a team “we thought that Perth was the best place for the first permanent Greenhouse, the city is really forging a new and unique identity and the people here are very eager to get involved in something new.”

In February this year, the success was again replicated with the opening of Greenhouse Sydney – a pop-up restaurant that has attracted excellent reviews and masses of media attention. Scheduled to be open for business for just six weeks the success has been such that there are rumours abounding of a permanent Greenhouse destined for Sydney.

According to its website, www.greenhouseperth.com, the Greenhouse St Georges Terrace in Perth “hopes to be one of Perth’s most exciting destinations, with the emphasis on tasty, honest food and drink, and some simple ideas for a considerate and non-destructive lifestyle.” Co-owner Aron says: “The concept was to create a hospitality environment that challenged our customers to think about the building materials they use and why.”

And force you to think it does − the restaurant is built entirely from recycled or recyclable materials, including straw bales (locally sourced) for insulation, recycled plastics and raw plywood. The exterior of the building is clad in corrugated iron, covered by a vertical garden – with about 400 terracotta pots filled with strawberry plants and ivy.

There is a rooftop garden that not only provides a relaxing place for customers to take a break from it all, but also provides the restaurant with much of its fresh produce. A worm farm used to recycle kitchen and bar waste to use on the garden and a water recycling system also provide the team with further proof that they are leading the way with their green ethos.

The use of recycled materials doesn’t stop there though, with various items used throughout the restaurant being rejuvenated into ideas far from their original uses, such as the ice buckets made from old gas cylinders and the light shades fashioned out of fencing wire.

Due to demand, Aron says: “Our rooftop garden cannot sustain our restaurants requirements, up there we grow micro herbs for garnishes, some interesting varieties of heirloom veggies and plenty of herbs − all of which we use in the bar and kitchen.”

The other important facet of this rooftop garden is to provide their customers with an experience. Aron explains: “It is more of an educational tool for our customers, they see the vegetables coming into season and then that reflects in our menus.”

For produce that is not sourced from the rooftop, Aron says the restaurant supports local growers by sourcing the freshest local seasonal produce direct from the farm and from the market. Also, he says: “We have strong relationships with local farmers like Dale and Terri Lloyd from Eden Valley Biodynamic, who grow amazing wheat, barley and oats. We are trying to go back to basics with our food. We mill our own grain and make our own wood-fired sourdough for example.”

The menu reflects this with some of the dishes on offer, including sashimi of kingfish, sushi rice, avocado and wakami; or coconut jelly, pineapple granita, mango and lychee – all sounding delightfully fresh and contemporary!

So, aside from housing the restaurant in a building that is unique enough to initially draw customers in, the aim is then to provide a truly organic and seasonal dining experience that will bring those customers back time and time again.

And the future for Greenhouse? Aron advises that the pop-up Greenhouse is set to embark on a European tour and that there are future permanent Greenhouses planned for capital cities, so keep an eye out in your city. If a Greenhouse was to come your way, it would certainly be worth a visit!

As the green trend gathers momentum in Australia, there are also the charity pop-ups taking off overseas. The concept is simple enough – a celebrity Chef (the likes of Gordon Ramsay and Rick Stein have already lent their support), a temporary location, a charge per head and the profits donated to a worthy cause.

Yet another way for us to ease our social consciences by eating good food and drinking good wine. Cheers to that!

Doubling up to beat competitors

With convenience stores potentially muscling in on restaurant territory, savvy eateries are connecting with a shop to stay ahead.

Convenience stores – they’re everywhere, filled with pricey everyday essentials and junk food but not much charm. Their key feature is their … convenience! But there’s a growing shift. Savvy operators have clicked that plenty of consumers will pay for QUALITY along with their convenience. Hence qourmet products, a deli range, fresh produce and deluxe meals-to-go are increasingly on offer. With such a selection just as grabbable as milk and bread on the way home from work, this potentially takes business from restaurants/cafes/bistros.

Industry blogger and chef Matthew J. Goudge fears this development is a real threat to the restaurant industry. With the trend working well for convenience stores he is convinced it’s set to increase.

One way for restaurants to reclaim territory is by connecting to a shop, deli or providore. Offering consumers restaurant-quality meals that are fast and able to be taken home adds in convenience for people who want a decent meal without waiting around or eating out. Also having a selection of products on offer allows these customers to pick up a few extras while they’re there, increasing business further. Let people get their bread and milk at your shop!

Fourth Village Providore (Mosman, NSW) is one such ‘double’ business: the restaurant adjoins a providore, an award-winning marketplace selling fresh produce, antipasto, cheeses, fine foods and take home meals made in-house. It is a beautiful establishment and a foodie’s paradise.

Owner Peter Quattroville has found having the two parts to be a successful business model: “The cross-over of the two is a perfect marriage.”

With a roughly fifty-fifty breakdown of trade between the two areas, Quattroville explains that “the majority of customers use both [sections]. Maybe not on the same day, but definitely at some stage.”

“It is also a unique experience for the customer, especially those who travel a distance. They come just for a coffee or a meal and then they can shop in the store,” he says. “It’s good for locals too. People meet and shop together, they come to catch up. There’s a real sense of community.”

Each business also benefits behind the scenes. The store produce can be used in the kitchen, and the two areas can share management and staff.

The downside is the increased complexity, Quattroville says.

“Obviously it is a lot to manage with a great number of variables. It’s not an easy thing to do … it’s more difficult to manage [than either single business].”

Unlike Goudge, Quattroville is not concerned about the encroachment of convenience stores: “You can’t compare the quality of takeaway convenience store meals to what’s served in our restaurant. Our market is well informed and appreciates a good meal, so they can tell the difference,” he says.

Of course it’s not in every restaurant owner’s budget, skillset or logistical situation to open a fully fledged product shop next door.

Quattroville stresses that a double business, while advantageous, requires expertise in both areas: “The important thing is it [the shop] can’t be seen to be an add on – it needs to be integrated.”

“It’s a concept that’s a lot of hard work with a high number of aspects that need to come together. It’s not for the fainthearted. I have 30 years experience. You really need experience in both areas,” he says.

He doesn’t recommend that an operator in one area just go plonking the other section in. Goudge agrees: he suggests teaming up with a convenience store, thus receiving the benefits without needing to run that side of the business. While negotiation and changes would be needed, the potential is huge.

Goudge also suggests a new concept as a middle ground: restaurants set up a corner in a convenience store. This maintains the convenience factor, but the restaurant section offers customers a more sophisticated way to sit and eat without a long wait.

Or at its simplest, this double concept could be started in any restaurant by stocking a small product range so diners can purchase something extra as they settle their bill. Conversely, as a customer pops in to pick up a bottle of their new favourite olive oil, they smell lunch cooking in the restaurant and decide to stay on – the areas feed each other, a positive for any business.

The Thin Cut

Whether it’s for cheesesteaks or Mongolian barbecue, shaved steak has proven to be a versatile option for generations of meat lovers.

The use of thinly sliced meat has been around for generations, and while us Aussies often tend to opt for a big slab of porterhouse or a giant T-bone on the barbie, many other cultures savour the flavour of this thinly sliced and easily prepared meat.

At the Genghis Khan Mongolian restaurant in Adelaide, the proprietor, Fon Lau, explains that thinly sliced meat came about through necessity in Mongolia originally. Because the weather was so cold, the meat would freeze and the people had no choice but to thinly slice their frozen meat for use in cooking.

Nowadays, he says, the meat is frozen quite deliberately in order to achieve the thinnest slice possible. In terms of beef, Lau says that most often they would utilise cuts such as topside or knuckle – not the most expensive cuts but when sliced so thinly will cook to perfection and remain tender.

Once the meat is frozen it is sliced (or shaved) on a commercial slicer to achieve the desired thickness and cooked to order in the traditional Mongolian restaurant.  Although the restaurant is classified as ‘all you can eat’, he says that all meals are cooked to order with customers choosing their own meat, vegetables and sauces to be cooked by chefs wielding huge chopsticks on a round grill. Even the cooking method has been around for generations – with the round grill said to represent the shields the ancient Mongols heated up and then cooked on with chopsticks similar to those used today.  Another popular use of thinly sliced meat is for the traditional Italian dish, carpaccio. A raw beef dish with its origins in the famous Harry’s Bar in Venice, and apparently named after the Venetian painter Vittore Carpaccio, it still remains a popular menu item in both traditional and contemporary Italian restaurants.

Traditionally, the dish is kept simple, comprising raw beef served very thinly sliced, drizzled with olive oil, a little lemon juice and frequently topped with capers. Some chefs will also add grated parmesan cheese to the dish.

According to Michelle Elia, Chef at Cicciolina Restaurant in St Kilda, beef carpaccio remains a really popular dish to have on their menu. She states that they also deviate from tradition by serving other dishes such as tuna carpaccio which are also popular.

In this sense the term ‘carpaccio’ frequently refers to the method of slicing and serving different forms of meat and seafood. But it is the traditional beef carpaccio that has stood the test of time.

When asked why she thinks it has remained a popular dish for so many years, Elia enthuses: “Because it’s light, and it’s usually a really good, high quality grade of meat that you would slice up thinly and serve raw. It’s tasty, just a lighter sort of meal option. That’s why I love it anyway, if you don’t want to have a massive meal it’s a good, light and tasty choice.”

Given that the meat is served raw in carpaccio, Elia stresses the importance of using top quality meat, stating that in her restaurant they would most often opt to use the eye fillet.

With carpaccio, the meat is not necessarily referred to as being ‘shaved’ and is not routinely sliced using a commercial slicer. It is however often frozen (or partially frozen) to make the thin slicing easier and more accurate.

Elia states that she has utilised both options for slicing in the past – commercial slicer and slicing by hand, and generally would freeze the meat first if they wanted wafer thin slices for their dish. She explains that thinner slices are usually required for a seafood carpaccio, and slightly thicker for the beef dish. When preparing carpaccio in her restaurant, Elia states that she tends to stick to the traditional serving of the dish. “We always try to use simple, fresh ingredients, you don’t want to overcrowd the dish, it’s important you are able to taste the quality beef.”

Another long-standing use of ‘shaved beef’ is the ubiquitous ‘Philly cheesesteak’. Invented in South Philadelphia in the 1930s, those native to Philadelphia are passionate about the dish.

According to Wikipedia, the meat traditionally used is thinly sliced rib eye or top round. Along with the thinly shaved and fried meat a white roll is stuffed with fried onions and cheese such as provolone. These days cheesesteaks are available at numerous specialty fast food restaurants throughout Philadelphia and the grease-filled buns are best sellers.

In Quebec, the use of very thinly sliced, or shaved, beef is hugely popular in a dish known as ‘Chinese Fondue’ or ‘Fondue Chiniose’. The fondue uses very thinly sliced beef tenderloin or sirloin, served on a platter, alongside a large pot of flavoursome beef broth filled with herbs, spices and vegetables.

The slices of meat are simply speared and immersed in the boiling broth to cook for a few seconds, then served with a variety of dips and sauces.

According to a French Canadian friend, the broth ingredients vary depending on the cook, and are often a closely guarded family recipe. The sharing of fondue is a common and relaxing way of spending time with friends and family.

According to Australian butchers, customers here would not commonly ask for ‘shaved steak’. We tend to use what’s more commonly referred to as ‘minute steak’ or ‘sandwich steak’ for preparing menu items like steak sandwiches. And that’s a different thing altogether.

Minute steak generally refers to a piece of meat that has been tenderised and will cook very quickly (hence the term minute steak) on a grill or barbecue. It is most often used in dishes like steak sandwiches or when consumers want a piece of meat that will cook quickly without any fuss. According to www.cuisine.com “minute steaks are usually sirloin, cut thinly to cook very quickly.”

So, it is clearly seen that the use of delicate, thinly sliced meat is popular in a variety of dishes. A variety of cuts can be used depending on the dish – and one thing is certain, they are all tasty and hugely popular dishes in various cultures.

But, I have to admit, despite repeated attempts and promising it would be ‘off the record’, the secret recipe for the Chinese Fondue broth my friend obtained from his mother has remained just that!

murray lion hotel

Murray Smith, Head Chef of Lion Hotel

BISTRO speaks to Murray Smith, Head Chef of Lion Hotel, South Australia.

Where were you working previously to The Lion Hotel? Please explain your background and work history.

I was the Head Chef at the Oxford Hotel in North Adelaide for two years, before that I travelled and worked overseas for almost three years. I worked in London for 12 months as a Sous Chef at the St Georges Hotel, then in Bermuda at the Coral Beach Tennis Club and Resort also as a Sous Chef. Prior to travelling I worked in Perth, Broome and Adelaide during my apprenticeship.

How did you come about to work as Head Chef at The Lion Hotel? Please explain the journey.

After travelling overseas, I returned to Adelaide to join owners Tim Gregg and Andrew Svencis as they transformed The Oxford Hotel into a vibrant, modern and contemporary hotel, working as Head Chef for two years. When they opened The Lion Hotel in December 1997 I moved with them as Head Chef and the rest is history.

Travelling and working in such diverse places exposed me to a variety of different cuisines, cultures and working environments so you can’t help but be influenced in some way by these experiences. It might be a sight or sound or fragrance that instantly takes you back to your travelling days and then inspires you to incorporate something into your next menu.

How long have you been at The Lion?

In April it was 11 years since I first joined The Lion. The industry has changed a lot during this time and obviously as a Chef it’s been important to keep abreast of these changes. Customers dining expectations and variety of dining occasions change as people age, and dining trends come and go so it’s important to always stay focused.

What (if any) changes did you implement at the restaurant?

Prior to The Lion opening, the business had been closed and the building unoccupied so there was plenty of opportunity to make a fresh start within the rich architectural heritage of the original brewery/hotel complex. As the owners also operated The Oxford, there were certain expectations on the level and quality of service.  I think one of the keys to overcoming this hurdle was to build a stable team of Chefs around me for long-term success. Of course you still need to get the mix of menu, price, service and ambience right, but without a good stable team behind you, it makes the proposition much more vulnerable.

Define the style of cuisine at The Lion.

Modern Australian.

What customers do you cater for? While it is now an iconic dining restaurant in Adelaide it is nevertheless a hotel. Do you have several markets? How do you cater for such variance?

I think this is part of the appeal of The Lion. You can drop by for a coffee under the verandah, or hold your annual conference in one of our event rooms. With seven function rooms, a bar, an award winning restaurant, a casual dining area, a restaurant and a gaming room, we appeal to such a broad audience.  Every space has a different feel and use, and yet we deliver the same commitment to customer service and quality across all facets of the Hotel.

We have a dedicated section of the kitchen that focuses solely on Functions and Events, so even if we have 200 people in the underground tunnels for a 21st or a black tie, five-course dinner for 110 in the Jerningham Room, we can still remain totally focussed on a full restaurant on a busy Saturday night.

I think the appeal also lies in the fact that you can have breakfast in Express in the morning, have an a la carte lunch or dinner in the restaurant, then move to the bar for a great night of live music all in the one venue that is right in the middle of North Adelaide.

Obviously when we plan our seasonal menu changes we ensure that there is always a diverse selection of food available – whether it be bar snacks, Lion Express or the restaurant. We also cater for people with differing dietary requirements such as gluten free, vegetarian and lactose free menu’s so we’ve obviously responded to the changing expectations of our clientele.

If you opened your own restaurant can you describe it to us?

It depends what day you ask me! But it would be a contemporary space with very relaxed atmosphere and an emphasis on quality ingredients cooked in a simple but technical way and always trying to showcase as much local produce as possible.

How do you keep your skills up? Do you eat out? Travel? Study?

Our latest educational trip was to Tasmania with our Sous Chef, two second year apprentices and one of the owners, Tim Gregg who is Tasmanian. One of the places we visited was Cape Grim on the north westernmost tip of the Tasmanian, renowned for the world’s most pure air. We source some of our beef from here, so it was fantastic to see firsthand, where our produce is reared and to appreciate the commitment to quality and the enthusiasm and professionalism of our suppliers. These sort of trips provide so much inspiration when you arrive back in the kitchen.

I also try to eat out as much as I can, but it’s not always possible with two young children. We do travel a bit with the kids and eat as much varied food as we can, which is a real education for the whole family, and give me the opportunity to see what other establishments are doing.

Name the chefs you admire and why?

Charlie Trotter – balance of flavours.

Gordon Ramsey – demands perfection.

Heston Blumenthal – pushes the boundaries and makes his diners think.
Jamie Oliver – makes cooking a total experience with his fun approach.

What are the unique challenges that face a Head Chef in Adelaide?

Keeping up with the changing marketplace is always a challenge, but this is what keeps you on your toes and makes you strive to continually perform at your best. In difficult economic times such as the GFC it’s been a balancing act trying to keep the business profitable, and creating seasonal menus that are exciting and appealing to both our regular clientele and new customers, and that’s just front of house!

Behind the scenes we have a terrific, enthusiastic team who want to learn – and we want to teach them, to inspire and foster their passion for food and creativity, and expose them to the other side of running a successful business so they consider the environmental, ethical and economic effects that can that impact their decisions in the kitchen. This helps to create a sense of worth and family which gives our staff a feeling of belonging and helps to mitigate the steady exodus that can exist in this industry.

taxi dining

Taxi Dining Room, Tony Twitchett interview

Tony Twitchett, the youngest of four boys, discovered his passion for food by preparing routine family meals with his mother and brothers.

At the age of 17, Tony moved to Melbourne to join his elder brothers Paul and Peter at Royal Arcade restaurant Luciano’s. He then moved on to start an apprenticeship at The Stokehouse, St Kilda in 1997 where he learned the culinary craft alongside well-known Chefs such as Michael Lambie, Paul Raynor, Jean Gorde Allen and Justin Pola.

Tony began working with Robert Cunningham after his apprenticeship and worked his way up to junior Sous Chef. During this time, Tony established his love for Chinese and Southeast Asian cuisines, which he explored while travelling through the region in 2002 and again in 2009.

Tony moved on for a stint at Ezards in the CBD before moving back to St Kilda to work with Chef Michael Lambie once again at Circa. The two developed a great friendship which continued when Tony joined him at Taxi Dining Room in Federation Square in 2004 and at the age of 26 was appointed Head Chef.

At the end of 2009, Tony – under Taxi Dining Room’s same umbrella company, Sovereign Hotel Group – opened Barkers Wine Bar & Bistro in Hawthorn, where his modern Australian gourmet cuisine challenged the notion of ‘pub grub’.

After a successful 12 months at Barkers, Tony has now come home to Taxi to take over the role as Executive Chef.

BISTRO speaks to Tony about Taxi Dining, the Melbourne dining scene  and where the pub ‘gastro’ scene is going.

1. What specific challenges are there in running a fine restaurant like Taxi Dining from a hotel environment?

Keeping the standards at an evenly high standard across the board (food, wine, service & ambiance).

Reaching everybody’s expectations, from a regular guest stopping in for a glass of wine & some sushi, through to a group visiting Melbourne for the first time and sampling from a premium nine course degustation.

Sourcing the best ingredients for my menus.

2. Can you describe the clientele at Taxi Dining Room?

The demographic of Taxi’s diners ranges from ‘ladies that lunch’ to businessmen, we have celebratory events in the venue on a regular basis and the amount of proposals is too high to count. We have hosted some of the biggest celebrities, homegrown and international and some of the world’s greatest political leaders.

3. How would you describe the style and food of the restaurant?

The food at Taxi is definitely ‘modern Australian with Asian influences’ (Chinese, Japanese and south east Asian) the style of Taxi is a ‘Destination Restaurant’, where you can come and enjoy the cuisine and watch the excitement of Melbourne from above.

4. The restaurant has managed to excel in not just amazing food but also wine, service and atmosphere. Given the fact your background is kitchen-based – how does a chef pull off the ‘Quadrella’?

Over the last 7 years Taxi’s been blessed with great heads of departments, the kitchen has had Michael Lambie and myself creating culinary delights, the restaurant’s atmosphere was created by a very ‘attention to detail’ front of house team, and the professional wine team has been headed by greats over the years. As they say, “A champion TEAM will always beat a TEAM of champions.”

5. How would you describe the restaurant scene in Melbourne at the moment?

It feels like it’s on the surge back up to its best, similar to pre-GFC. Most restaurants and dining rooms are spending money on their venues or opening new venues. In this industry you have to expand and grow with the demands, and with punters back out there dining, venues are striving to excite again.

6. Do you think too many restaurants in Melbourne are fixated on chasing the latest trends?

Yes, hence the flood of ‘Gastro pubs’ in Melbourne.

7. Which chefs do you draw your inspiration from?

David Chang, Kylie Kwong, Fuchsia Dunlop, Elizabeth David, just to name a few.

8. Do you employ many apprentices? What are the most important lessons for them?

Yes, we have six at the moment, which is a third of our kitchen. Most important lesson is to taste everything at every stage of cooking to learn about building flavours. Also learn to watch and listen, everyone’s a teacher of something, even your grandmother.

9. How do you continue to grow as a chef?

Eating out, reading and travelling (overseas and locally).

10. We are seeing more and more ‘gastro’ style pub restaurants – why do you think this trend is growing?

I think it was growing because everyone was eating locally – so the ‘local pub’ had to become food-orientated to satisfy our ‘food savvy’ community, Melbourne.

11. What advice would you give a hotel owner if considering opening a fine dining pub restaurant?

Every customer that calls, walks past the front door, looks at your website – is a potential customer. It is how you make them a customer – that’s what makes the difference between a business and a successful business.

And always, look after your locals as they are your bread and butter.

12. What does the future hold for you?

Now that I’m Taxi’s Executive Chef, I’m working closely with FOH & wine teams to extend Taxi’s future for another successful seven years and beyond.

Dining in the New Year – what to expect

Passion creates great business at 3Weeds

The Welcome Hotel has  been associated with serving up the best pub fare for some time. In the recently released Sydney Morning Herald Good Pub Food Guide it was only one of two hotels to receive the coveted three schooners. BISTRO interviews head chef Simon Mackay to find out what it takes to bring fine dining to a pub in Rozelle.

Sizzling seafood

And much more…

BISTRO interviews Head Chef Leigh McDivitt, the man behind the success of the 3Weeds Restaurant, Balmain.

What are the unique challenges working in a ‘hotel’ dining environment?

Having two entirely different products does create a challenge. I have been trained and worked primarily in fine dining and had to spend some time getting to know the locals and the food that they liked. In the most part this really comes down to a lot of hard work as I fine-tune ‘The Restaurant’ menu and at the same time create a successful Gastro-Pub menu.

Describe the clientele at the 3Weeds restaurant?

Our market is mostly from around the inner west and on the weekends from across Sydney.  I am now happy to say that a majority of our market are ‘foodies’ and are really enjoying some of the newer, more challenging things I am doing.

The menu is not long – is there any particular reason for this?

The menu here has never been long and one of the main reasons for this is a real lack of kitchen space. The other important factor is my emphasis on quality as opposed to quantity and a constantly changing and evolving menu.

The 3Weeds also has a very popular bar menu. Can you explain the difference  in clientele between those sitting in your fine dining restaurant to those ordering from the bar?

Our market in the bar demands high quality food that is inexpensive and fast.

The restaurant diners are after a quieter, slower and more refined experience.

Do you produce the food from the same kitchen? What are the logistical problems associated with this?

We do and the space is divided into two sections. This has always been a challenge for previous chefs as well as myself.  The issue is to put out high production, quality food from one side and then the more refined and sophisticated food from another.

And you need to have the ‘right’ equipment.

Are there two sets of chefs? Does this create issues?

Take care in who you hire, there is a fine dining chef and a bar chef. These people are very different, have different skill levels and requirements, you need to make sure you find the right person for both sides.

Which is more profitable – fine dining or bar menu?

The bar, this is based on it being a high capacity space.

It’s our bread and butter!

Do you employ apprentices? – What are the biggest lessons for them to learn?

Yes.  This is a life commitment that requires passion and dedication.

The 3Weeds excels not just in food but service, ambiance and wine – how do you manage to do so well at all four with such a relatively small team?

The nature of our small and passionate team means that we are able to focus on the details and the relationships we have with our guests, things that are often overlooked in larger establishments.

Do you think we will see more great restaurants in traditional pubs?

I would hope so.

What are your observations of Sydney’s restaurant scene? What trends can you see over the next few years?

Sydney’s restaurant scene is constantly changing and something that you need to constantly adapt to. Trends? I can most definitely see the use of organic produce become more prolific and readily available at reasonable prices and it will become a thing that the general public will expect to see in restaurants.

How do you continue to develop as a chef?

I spend a lot of time eating out, seeing what other chefs are doing. I am at the markets weekly to see what new produce is available and finally just simply being creative in the kitchen and trying out new ideas.

What does the future hold for Leigh McDivitt?

I would like to one day have my own restaurant.

This decadent dessert consistently rates on hotel menus. And, here’s why…

Chocolate. Yes, that sweet, dark brown candy. Even just the thought of it can get the mouth salivating…

Despite the health-obsessed times we live in, customers will still find it the one item that’s hard to resist on the dessert menu, whatever form it comes in – ice cream, cake or some other wicked dessert! It’s the ultimate indulgence… and it’s an option that chefs should never overlook.

It doesn’t matter where guests are enjoying their meals – from family-orientated restaurants to fine dining – many won’t feel sated unless they round things off with chocolate.
And, it’s good news for operators, as desserts are based on lower-cost staples like sugar, flour, eggs, butter and cream, meaning better profit margins compared to appetisers and entrees.

Joe Cavallo, the head chef of Aperitivo restaurant in Sydney’s Leichhardt, says having chocolate on the menu is always a winner. “It is undoubtedly always a popular and often safe choice for customers to make – especially when it comes to desserts!”

BISTRO spoke about all things chocolate with those in the know – the chefs!

Why chocolate = success

If chocolate went to school, it’d be the cheerleader, because it wins the popularity contest – again and again!

Just ask Paul Hewitt, the head chef of P. J. Gallagher’s Irish pub restaurant in Sydney’s Parramatta. “I think 90 per cent of our customers would buy a chocolate dessert because, hey, who doesn’t like chocolate? Chocolate desserts always sell very well.” (P. J. Gallagher’s was awarded Best City Restaurant in NSW’s 2009 Australian Hotels Association Awards For Excellence.)

For Iain Todd from Piccalilly in Hobart’s Battery Point, chocolate has many virtues. “It adds colour, richness, texture – both hard and soft – shape and interest to a dish. It’s a very versatile ingredient.” (Piccalilly was voted Best Overall Restaurant of 2008/2009 in the Tasmanian Hospitality Association Awards for Excellence.)

As for Todd’s fave chocolaty dish, he enthuses: “Those where the chocolate has been lightened in texture, so it melts away in the mouth.” Mmmmm!

Watching the bottom line

Chocolate is – and will always be – a hit with diners, according to Leigh McDivitt, the head chef of 3Weeds Hotel’s restaurant in Sydney’s Rozelle. (The restaurant has two chef’s hats from the Good Food Guide and was awarded Best Restaurant in a Pub by the Australian Restaurant and Catering Association in 2009.)

Still, McDivitt says the good-quality variety can be expensive. “You must, of course, balance the costs of your ingredients, so that you can make money. I couldn’t sustain having a dish on my menu that didn’t make money.”
At the same time, McDivitt says the high, perceived value of chocolate makes it a perfect ingredient for producing a high rate of return… because it’s still considered a luxury!

Todd from Piccalilly echoes this sentiment: “The better the quality of the chocolate, the more intense the flavour, so you can afford to use less in your recipes… Chocolate is a good seller, so you know you will move plenty of units.”

Todd has more tips too: “Buy chocolate in bulk and never waste it. Chocolate, as long as it remains uncontaminated, can be used again.”
Hewitt from P. J. Gallagher’s reckons a careful balancing act is required when working with chocolate. “Just like any dish, we weigh up the cost of all the ingredients and find the best price that not only is profitable, but is also value for money for our customers.”

As you can see, all chefs agree that choccy desserts will always sell… the trick is finding the right balance between the cost of produce and labour, combined with a chef’s own knowledge, experience and skills to make a dish really ‘sing’!

Work it

Understanding chocolate’s properties and its behaviour is a “must”, according to McDivitt of 3Weeds. “You need to know what you are doing. Chocolate can be very tricky and takes skill and patience to achieve good results.” Plus, he adds: “Using quality chocolate and having the right equipment does make the difference.”
Hewitt from P. J. Gallagher’s has a few tips of his own: “Work quite quickly as chocolate tends to go hard and lumpy if left out too long; never add cold ingredients to warm chocolate; don’t melt chocolate over direct heat or it burns; and make sure all bowls and utensils are clean and dry before touching chocolate with them.”
Todd from Piccalilly chimes in with some ideas of his own: “Do your research. Ask for samples and taste the chocolate to decide which one suits you best for both price and intensity. Think about cocoa percentage and how that will affect bitterness or sweetness of the finished dish.”

Lastly, he says: “Don’t be afraid of it – it is easy [to use] with some understanding and practice!”

Getting creative

The use of chocolate in dessert dishes can allow chefs to get really imaginative, according to Todd from Piccalilly. “Think outside the box and be creative – think about incorporating chocolate into other areas of the menu,” Todd enthuses.

A recent dessert item on Piccalilly’s menu paired some particularly unusual flavours together – dark chocolate ice cream with pear and parmesan salad and mint jelly. Another recent addition has been soft-centered chocolate and violet mousse, with crystallised blossoms.

BISTRO asked Todd about the inspiration behind such dishes – particularly the ice cream! “Chocolate, pears and mint is a classic combination. The parmesan was added because it works so well with the pear. It adds salt to the dish, which is important, and gives it a more ‘adult’ feel. Piccalilly’s diners eat a large number of courses over a long period of time [so] it is important not to overload them with sugar.”
Cavallo from Aperitivo also errs on the adventurous side when it comes to choccy – particularly his dish dubbed ‘braised lamb, wrapped in filo pastry, with chocolate orange sauce’. Cavallo admits: “This is a challenging idea for some people at first, but is still very popular as it is such an unusual concept!” Other good sellers for the eatery include its chocolate truffles and Italian doughnuts with chocolate Nutella dipping sauce.

For McDivitt from 3Weeds, it’s all about combining different textures. A favourite? “Textures of chocolate with mandarin cigar and hazelnut praline.” Another recent addition has been its chocolate and beetroot marquise, with buttermilk sorbet and tequila jelly. Divine!
While McDivitt enjoys unleashing his creativity with such desserts, his feet also remain firmly planted on the ground. “We have found that we can be adventurous, but must keep it real. I like to take a classic dessert and add on top of that my own take. And then, of course, price will always be the defining point.”

Up-selling
When it comes to running a profitable kitchen, selling desserts is an integral component, according to Todd from Piccalilly. And, waiting staff should be well-informed, so as to entice customers.

“Educate your staff by getting them to taste the desserts,” Todd advises. “For the cost of one or two portions, the people, who can influence your guests’ decisions, can describe how lovely all the desserts are.”

As well, ensure a broad market is catered for on the dessert menu, according to Todd. “If only one person on the table feels like a dessert, they are likely to say no, so they’re not the only one eating. But, if there are more varied options on the menu to suit a range of tastes, you’re on a winner!”

Hewitt from P. J. Gallagher’s also has some wise words for selling desserts: “Giving a good and proper description on the menu always helps, and taking into account customer feedback of what desserts they like to eat.”

Special dates

Tapping into special events, which lend themselves to a chocolaty theme, can also help lure customers. For example, last Easter, the Sir Stamford at Sydney’s Circular Quay offered a chocolate indulgence High Tea.

This included chocolate scones with strawberry jam and double cream, a handmade praline chocolate Easter egg, velvet chocolate cupcakes, chilli chocolate creme brulee, with pistachio biscotti, and a chocolate fondue fountain with strawberries, Belgium waffles, handmade honeycomb and poached baby cherry apples for dipping. There was also an Easter High Tea buffet, which included chocolate shots, eclairs, tarts, and chocolate Pavlova. Gorgeous!

Valentine’s Day and Christmas are also other dates, where an extra-special choccy menu or treat can help attract patrons.

Chocolate? You’ll find it as irresistible as a menu add-on as your patrons will!