murray lion hotel

Murray Smith, Head Chef of Lion Hotel

BISTRO speaks to Murray Smith, Head Chef of Lion Hotel, South Australia.

Where were you working previously to The Lion Hotel? Please explain your background and work history.

I was the Head Chef at the Oxford Hotel in North Adelaide for two years, before that I travelled and worked overseas for almost three years. I worked in London for 12 months as a Sous Chef at the St Georges Hotel, then in Bermuda at the Coral Beach Tennis Club and Resort also as a Sous Chef. Prior to travelling I worked in Perth, Broome and Adelaide during my apprenticeship.

How did you come about to work as Head Chef at The Lion Hotel? Please explain the journey.

After travelling overseas, I returned to Adelaide to join owners Tim Gregg and Andrew Svencis as they transformed The Oxford Hotel into a vibrant, modern and contemporary hotel, working as Head Chef for two years. When they opened The Lion Hotel in December 1997 I moved with them as Head Chef and the rest is history.

Travelling and working in such diverse places exposed me to a variety of different cuisines, cultures and working environments so you can’t help but be influenced in some way by these experiences. It might be a sight or sound or fragrance that instantly takes you back to your travelling days and then inspires you to incorporate something into your next menu.

How long have you been at The Lion?

In April it was 11 years since I first joined The Lion. The industry has changed a lot during this time and obviously as a Chef it’s been important to keep abreast of these changes. Customers dining expectations and variety of dining occasions change as people age, and dining trends come and go so it’s important to always stay focused.

What (if any) changes did you implement at the restaurant?

Prior to The Lion opening, the business had been closed and the building unoccupied so there was plenty of opportunity to make a fresh start within the rich architectural heritage of the original brewery/hotel complex. As the owners also operated The Oxford, there were certain expectations on the level and quality of service.  I think one of the keys to overcoming this hurdle was to build a stable team of Chefs around me for long-term success. Of course you still need to get the mix of menu, price, service and ambience right, but without a good stable team behind you, it makes the proposition much more vulnerable.

Define the style of cuisine at The Lion.

Modern Australian.

What customers do you cater for? While it is now an iconic dining restaurant in Adelaide it is nevertheless a hotel. Do you have several markets? How do you cater for such variance?

I think this is part of the appeal of The Lion. You can drop by for a coffee under the verandah, or hold your annual conference in one of our event rooms. With seven function rooms, a bar, an award winning restaurant, a casual dining area, a restaurant and a gaming room, we appeal to such a broad audience.  Every space has a different feel and use, and yet we deliver the same commitment to customer service and quality across all facets of the Hotel.

We have a dedicated section of the kitchen that focuses solely on Functions and Events, so even if we have 200 people in the underground tunnels for a 21st or a black tie, five-course dinner for 110 in the Jerningham Room, we can still remain totally focussed on a full restaurant on a busy Saturday night.

I think the appeal also lies in the fact that you can have breakfast in Express in the morning, have an a la carte lunch or dinner in the restaurant, then move to the bar for a great night of live music all in the one venue that is right in the middle of North Adelaide.

Obviously when we plan our seasonal menu changes we ensure that there is always a diverse selection of food available – whether it be bar snacks, Lion Express or the restaurant. We also cater for people with differing dietary requirements such as gluten free, vegetarian and lactose free menu’s so we’ve obviously responded to the changing expectations of our clientele.

If you opened your own restaurant can you describe it to us?

It depends what day you ask me! But it would be a contemporary space with very relaxed atmosphere and an emphasis on quality ingredients cooked in a simple but technical way and always trying to showcase as much local produce as possible.

How do you keep your skills up? Do you eat out? Travel? Study?

Our latest educational trip was to Tasmania with our Sous Chef, two second year apprentices and one of the owners, Tim Gregg who is Tasmanian. One of the places we visited was Cape Grim on the north westernmost tip of the Tasmanian, renowned for the world’s most pure air. We source some of our beef from here, so it was fantastic to see firsthand, where our produce is reared and to appreciate the commitment to quality and the enthusiasm and professionalism of our suppliers. These sort of trips provide so much inspiration when you arrive back in the kitchen.

I also try to eat out as much as I can, but it’s not always possible with two young children. We do travel a bit with the kids and eat as much varied food as we can, which is a real education for the whole family, and give me the opportunity to see what other establishments are doing.

Name the chefs you admire and why?

Charlie Trotter – balance of flavours.

Gordon Ramsey – demands perfection.

Heston Blumenthal – pushes the boundaries and makes his diners think.
Jamie Oliver – makes cooking a total experience with his fun approach.

What are the unique challenges that face a Head Chef in Adelaide?

Keeping up with the changing marketplace is always a challenge, but this is what keeps you on your toes and makes you strive to continually perform at your best. In difficult economic times such as the GFC it’s been a balancing act trying to keep the business profitable, and creating seasonal menus that are exciting and appealing to both our regular clientele and new customers, and that’s just front of house!

Behind the scenes we have a terrific, enthusiastic team who want to learn – and we want to teach them, to inspire and foster their passion for food and creativity, and expose them to the other side of running a successful business so they consider the environmental, ethical and economic effects that can that impact their decisions in the kitchen. This helps to create a sense of worth and family which gives our staff a feeling of belonging and helps to mitigate the steady exodus that can exist in this industry.

taxi dining

Taxi Dining Room, Tony Twitchett interview

Tony Twitchett, the youngest of four boys, discovered his passion for food by preparing routine family meals with his mother and brothers.

At the age of 17, Tony moved to Melbourne to join his elder brothers Paul and Peter at Royal Arcade restaurant Luciano’s. He then moved on to start an apprenticeship at The Stokehouse, St Kilda in 1997 where he learned the culinary craft alongside well-known Chefs such as Michael Lambie, Paul Raynor, Jean Gorde Allen and Justin Pola.

Tony began working with Robert Cunningham after his apprenticeship and worked his way up to junior Sous Chef. During this time, Tony established his love for Chinese and Southeast Asian cuisines, which he explored while travelling through the region in 2002 and again in 2009.

Tony moved on for a stint at Ezards in the CBD before moving back to St Kilda to work with Chef Michael Lambie once again at Circa. The two developed a great friendship which continued when Tony joined him at Taxi Dining Room in Federation Square in 2004 and at the age of 26 was appointed Head Chef.

At the end of 2009, Tony – under Taxi Dining Room’s same umbrella company, Sovereign Hotel Group – opened Barkers Wine Bar & Bistro in Hawthorn, where his modern Australian gourmet cuisine challenged the notion of ‘pub grub’.

After a successful 12 months at Barkers, Tony has now come home to Taxi to take over the role as Executive Chef.

BISTRO speaks to Tony about Taxi Dining, the Melbourne dining scene  and where the pub ‘gastro’ scene is going.

1. What specific challenges are there in running a fine restaurant like Taxi Dining from a hotel environment?

Keeping the standards at an evenly high standard across the board (food, wine, service & ambiance).

Reaching everybody’s expectations, from a regular guest stopping in for a glass of wine & some sushi, through to a group visiting Melbourne for the first time and sampling from a premium nine course degustation.

Sourcing the best ingredients for my menus.

2. Can you describe the clientele at Taxi Dining Room?

The demographic of Taxi’s diners ranges from ‘ladies that lunch’ to businessmen, we have celebratory events in the venue on a regular basis and the amount of proposals is too high to count. We have hosted some of the biggest celebrities, homegrown and international and some of the world’s greatest political leaders.

3. How would you describe the style and food of the restaurant?

The food at Taxi is definitely ‘modern Australian with Asian influences’ (Chinese, Japanese and south east Asian) the style of Taxi is a ‘Destination Restaurant’, where you can come and enjoy the cuisine and watch the excitement of Melbourne from above.

4. The restaurant has managed to excel in not just amazing food but also wine, service and atmosphere. Given the fact your background is kitchen-based – how does a chef pull off the ‘Quadrella’?

Over the last 7 years Taxi’s been blessed with great heads of departments, the kitchen has had Michael Lambie and myself creating culinary delights, the restaurant’s atmosphere was created by a very ‘attention to detail’ front of house team, and the professional wine team has been headed by greats over the years. As they say, “A champion TEAM will always beat a TEAM of champions.”

5. How would you describe the restaurant scene in Melbourne at the moment?

It feels like it’s on the surge back up to its best, similar to pre-GFC. Most restaurants and dining rooms are spending money on their venues or opening new venues. In this industry you have to expand and grow with the demands, and with punters back out there dining, venues are striving to excite again.

6. Do you think too many restaurants in Melbourne are fixated on chasing the latest trends?

Yes, hence the flood of ‘Gastro pubs’ in Melbourne.

7. Which chefs do you draw your inspiration from?

David Chang, Kylie Kwong, Fuchsia Dunlop, Elizabeth David, just to name a few.

8. Do you employ many apprentices? What are the most important lessons for them?

Yes, we have six at the moment, which is a third of our kitchen. Most important lesson is to taste everything at every stage of cooking to learn about building flavours. Also learn to watch and listen, everyone’s a teacher of something, even your grandmother.

9. How do you continue to grow as a chef?

Eating out, reading and travelling (overseas and locally).

10. We are seeing more and more ‘gastro’ style pub restaurants – why do you think this trend is growing?

I think it was growing because everyone was eating locally – so the ‘local pub’ had to become food-orientated to satisfy our ‘food savvy’ community, Melbourne.

11. What advice would you give a hotel owner if considering opening a fine dining pub restaurant?

Every customer that calls, walks past the front door, looks at your website – is a potential customer. It is how you make them a customer – that’s what makes the difference between a business and a successful business.

And always, look after your locals as they are your bread and butter.

12. What does the future hold for you?

Now that I’m Taxi’s Executive Chef, I’m working closely with FOH & wine teams to extend Taxi’s future for another successful seven years and beyond.

BISTRO interviews Head Chef Leigh McDivitt, the man behind the success of the 3Weeds Restaurant, Balmain.

What are the unique challenges working in a ‘hotel’ dining environment?

Having two entirely different products does create a challenge. I have been trained and worked primarily in fine dining and had to spend some time getting to know the locals and the food that they liked. In the most part this really comes down to a lot of hard work as I fine-tune ‘The Restaurant’ menu and at the same time create a successful Gastro-Pub menu.

Describe the clientele at the 3Weeds restaurant?

Our market is mostly from around the inner west and on the weekends from across Sydney.  I am now happy to say that a majority of our market are ‘foodies’ and are really enjoying some of the newer, more challenging things I am doing.

The menu is not long – is there any particular reason for this?

The menu here has never been long and one of the main reasons for this is a real lack of kitchen space. The other important factor is my emphasis on quality as opposed to quantity and a constantly changing and evolving menu.

The 3Weeds also has a very popular bar menu. Can you explain the difference  in clientele between those sitting in your fine dining restaurant to those ordering from the bar?

Our market in the bar demands high quality food that is inexpensive and fast.

The restaurant diners are after a quieter, slower and more refined experience.

Do you produce the food from the same kitchen? What are the logistical problems associated with this?

We do and the space is divided into two sections. This has always been a challenge for previous chefs as well as myself.  The issue is to put out high production, quality food from one side and then the more refined and sophisticated food from another.

And you need to have the ‘right’ equipment.

Are there two sets of chefs? Does this create issues?

Take care in who you hire, there is a fine dining chef and a bar chef. These people are very different, have different skill levels and requirements, you need to make sure you find the right person for both sides.

Which is more profitable – fine dining or bar menu?

The bar, this is based on it being a high capacity space.

It’s our bread and butter!

Do you employ apprentices? – What are the biggest lessons for them to learn?

Yes.  This is a life commitment that requires passion and dedication.

The 3Weeds excels not just in food but service, ambiance and wine – how do you manage to do so well at all four with such a relatively small team?

The nature of our small and passionate team means that we are able to focus on the details and the relationships we have with our guests, things that are often overlooked in larger establishments.

Do you think we will see more great restaurants in traditional pubs?

I would hope so.

What are your observations of Sydney’s restaurant scene? What trends can you see over the next few years?

Sydney’s restaurant scene is constantly changing and something that you need to constantly adapt to. Trends? I can most definitely see the use of organic produce become more prolific and readily available at reasonable prices and it will become a thing that the general public will expect to see in restaurants.

How do you continue to develop as a chef?

I spend a lot of time eating out, seeing what other chefs are doing. I am at the markets weekly to see what new produce is available and finally just simply being creative in the kitchen and trying out new ideas.

What does the future hold for Leigh McDivitt?

I would like to one day have my own restaurant.

The Welcome Hotel has  been associated with serving up the best pub fare for some time. In the recently released Sydney Morning Herald Good Pub Food Guide it was only one of two hotels to receive the coveted three schooners. BISTRO interviews head chef Simon Mackay to find out what it takes to bring fine dining to a pub in Rozelle.

Can you give us some background about your career so far?

I have spent the last four years working in the UK, France and at leading Sydney Restaurants including The Burlington, The Tilbury and Macleay Street Bistro. From 2006-2008 I worked at Notting Hill Brasserie in London but my heart was in France.  I worked as junior sous chef in a Modern French restaurant on the Riviera and then worked as private chef on a super yacht in Monaco for two years before returning to Australia.

Please describe the menu for us at both the restaurant and the bar?

We describe the menus as European Gastro-Pub, however we have brought back the humble rissole on the bar menu and I’m working on a fantastic fish burger. The bar menu is all about comfort food and generosity.

The restaurant menu showcases modern classics and seasonality, making this much more flexible to work with on a daily basis.

There is an Irish influence through the menu. Why?

The Welcome has always had a strong expat Irish clientele and to some extent that has influenced some of the dishes and trends; I think the Irish influence comes through more so in our overall atmosphere of the hotel and this comes through in some of the dishes. So really, the food style is more European now with the heartiness of some dishes being somewhat of a reflection back to Ireland. I must say we do great things with potatoes.

Do you use the one kitchen? Do you have separate people working the bar menu as opposed to the restaurant? Does this create any staff issues?

We operate out of the one kitchen with a separate prep area and things can get pretty hairy on the big nights due to the small size of the kitchen. The restaurant and bar menu are serviced by the same team so  when I’m creating both menus I bear this in mind. Almost 80% of the bar menu comes from the entrée section and during that ‘hour of power’ when all the dockets seem to come at once we all jump in  and multi task as both menus are as significant as each other. Our only issue is oven space – I’d love a bigger kitchen!

In regards to the restaurant – can you describe your patrons – are they locals? Do you have people travelling from other places?

Our Sunday – Wednesday customers are mainly locals, the rest of the week are people venturing from other suburbs even from the east. Lunchtime trade is mainly business people. We have a very good repeat clientele throughout the hotel and it is something we work very hard at from the floor staff all the way through to the kitchen.

The Welcome Hotel is renowned for great food. How important is this in a business sense to the hotel as a whole? Are the restaurants ‘drivers’ for the rest of the hotel?

The kitchen is the engine room and has always been a focus of the hotel. I work closely with the owner and managers on all aspects of the operation, the food is definitely the driving force, although I might be a bit biased.

How often does the menu change? How do you come up with new menu items?

When the seasons change the menus follow, once I know the quality of the produce I can get. You don’t want to start too early into a new season, which we are most likely to see this winter with the impact of the Qld floods on produce. My style adapts to the season, in autumn I like doing a lot of braising and I’m currently working on a short rib wellington with bone marrow, confit shallots and Jerusalem artichoke puree. I do a lot studying with the style of food I want to work with and I spend a lot of time at the markets to make weekly changes. I really enjoy testing new dishes weekly based on what I find at the markets.

Of course going out to eat at other restaurants is an absolute favourite pastime.

Where do you source produce from – please highlight meats and vegetables and herbs in particular?

We use a range of beef products from Wagyu for intercostals and brisket but most of it’s Riverine beef from South Australia & we only use Berkshire pork from Byron Bay. In the winter months you will see New Zealand turbot appear back on the menu. It’s such a lovely strong flavoured delicate fish that is so under used in restaurants in this country.

I work closely with our suppliers. Joto and Verdi send out excellent newsletter updates and can be very helpful in getting directions of foods, pricing and availability. I talk a lot too with other chefs, and often have a quick team catch-up at the Fish markets or a Growers market. I have been amazed since coming back from Europe just how good our produce is in Australia – so often less is more.

Pub restaurants as higher-end dining destinations are really taking off in Sydney. Why are they becoming so popular?

Australia has a strong pub culture and in recent years, especially with the explosion of food shows, magazines etc.  Going to a pub restaurant is more approachable than fine-dining but with the same emphasis on quality in flavour and service. We try to aim to be the place you can come to a few times a week, rather than the place you would just go to for special occasions, which I think is something that fine-dining restaurants would have to struggle with.

What is your take on Sydney’s restaurant scene at the moment? What trends do you see over the next few years?

There are so many fantastic diverse eating options around Sydney. I can’t believe how many new restaurants open monthly, I think chefs are sticking to the basics in their own manner. We have headed away from over-complicated dishes that they don’t understand and are heading towards more nose to tail eating with simple garnishes. Sustainability eating is a growing trend and the awareness of lowering food miles, regional cuisine is becoming more popular than the eclectic mix that we have seen in the past.

Where do you see yourself in five years time/ ten years time?

Never mind five years, I will be 80 and still doing the same food I’m doing today.  I would love to head back to Europe one day with the freshness of what we do out here and the techniques I have developed.

Colin was also part of the team to open Gordon Ramsey’s Box Wood Café in London.

He moved to Australia and worked at Banc and Est at Establishment. Since 2004 he has been the Head Chef at the Four in Hand in Paddington.

The Four in Hand has been a consistent performer in the Sydney Morning Herald’s Good Food Guide. The restaurant  improved on it’s One Hat credentials to receive Two Hats and a Wine goblet  in the most recent SMH Awards.

BISTRO speaks to the man behind the success, Colin Fassnidge.

Why did you choose a traditional pub for your restaurant?

I had seen what Matt Kemp did in his first Balzac Restaurant in Randwick, which showed us you don’t need a million dollars to get your philosophy across.

What challenges are specific to operating a hatted restaurant from a pub and in particular from the Four in Hand.

The only challenge is that we are too small and the pub only adds to the ambience next door which makes it quirky rather than trendy, which is the norm.

How do you manage in such a small kitchen?

Menu planning, a great team, spaced bookings and we don’t cook everything to order as a lot of our food is sous vied and prepped in advanced.  Also the kitchen works at a very fast pace.

Some have described your restaurant  as ‘French Bistro in style with a spark’. Would you agree?

I disagree. Its seasonal, nose to tail with elements of my travels.

Do you think too many restaurants in Sydney are fixated on chasing the latest trends?

Yes and that’s why we have done so well because we have consistently, followed our own path and we are now reaping the fruit which has come to fruition.

Sydney summers are long and (can be) hot. How do you adjust your  menu to reflect the summer season?

Seasonal, which is basic common sense and economically sound.

You are a big fan of Fergus Henderson of London’s St John Restaurant. What are the things he does that inspire you?

Basically, he followed his own path when everyone else was trendy. He stuck to his own beliefs and now is considered one of the best chefs.

You do a lot of pork. Can you outline your reasons?

Its such a versatile animal. We do a lot of roasting, braising and pig’s ears. We roast a whole animal, as a show stopper. It’s a good sized beast, where we can use the whole animal on our menu.

Do you employ apprentices? What are the most important lessons for them?

Yes. Tasting… We have chefs who come in, who have never tasted what they have cooked before. We teach them to taste at every stage and to ask why.

From where you currently are, how do you continue to grow as a chef?

We are looking at expansion. We have a winning formula and a winning team which we can translate to another venue as well as the Four In Hand and the next project will be more interactive with chefs and customers.

Hatted restaurants in traditional pubs – do you think we will see more of them?

Yes, because it’s a blank canvas. It lets the food shine, not the fit out.

The restaurant has managed to excel in not just amazing food but also wine, service and  atmosphere. Given the fact your background is kitchen-based – how does a chef pull off the ‘Quadrella’?

I’m in my kitchen every day (cooking, not in an office) we have such a small team, it is close with a lot of communication and we all have the same goal from kitchen-apprentice to rest manager.

What does the future hold for you?

Expansion with keeping an emphasis on what we do well and not getting too big and forgetting who the customer is.

BISTRO caught up with a very busy Head Chef.

Where were you working previously to Altitude Restaurant. Please explain your background and work history?

I started my career in Winnipeg, Canada where I was born, then moved to London for a short stay. I migrated to Australia in 1999 where I worked at Banc for three years then moved to Restaurant Balzac for four years.

How did you come to work as Head Chef Altitude – please explain the journey?

After four years as Head Chef at Restaurant Balzac, I decided that it was time to run my own kitchen. Many Chefs around the world were making moves to hotels and I felt the stigma in dining in a ‘hotel’ restaurant was making a positive change. I was driven by the challenge to bring a private restaurant experience to a hotel restaurant diner.

How long have you been at Altitude?

Three and a half years.

What ( if any) changes did you implement at the restaurant?

I think the first change I made was to bring a strong and focused goal to the whole team. On the menu, the first change was to implement a focus on great suppliers and bringing small boutique growers to Altitude to showcase them in a fresh and interesting way. Another change we made was to create a cheese menu and offer over 16 cheeses to every diner.

Define the style of cuisine at Altitude?

Modern Australia with strong European ties and a focus on seasonality cooking.

What customers do you cater for? Being a five star hotel with international travellers but at the same time being an iconic dining restaurant to Sydney – how do you appeal to both markets?

We cater for both International guests AND Sydney residents. Our menu displays the best of Australian produce with modern Australian cuisine. I feel that for international guests, we offer a dining experience unique to Australia, and the variety to appeal to different nationalities.

The prices are very reasonable for a dining destination like Altitude. Was this a deliberate decision when compiling the menu?

Yes, absolutely.  One of the stigma’s about dining in some hotels is that they are overpriced and rely on guests of the hotel.  Our customer focus is evenly balanced between Sydney residents and guests, therefore we like everyone to leave knowing they received good value for money.

You have a large vegetarian component to the menu. Why so large? How popular is it?

A vegetarian menu is important to have to give everyone a choice. Altitude also believes that everyone should have variety in what they choose to order. The vegetarian menu is very popular.

If you opened your own restaurant can you describe it to us?

Sixty seats. Small. Unobtrusive. Somewhere you’d want to dine at every day of the week.  Simple, warm and inviting food.

How do you keep your skills up? Do you eat out? Travel? Study?

I am a constant reader of anything to do with cooking. I dine at every chance I get and travelling is always dictated by the dining experience I want from a particular country.

Name the chefs you admire  and why?

Before January, I would have given you a list of Chefs and what they’d accomplished. The beginning of this year, I was lucky enough to work with Michel Roux in my kitchen. The way he carried himself and the pure love he has for this industry has earned my respect and admiration.

What are the unique challenges that face a head chef at a large five star hotel?

My passion and desire is to be a part of the kitchen and hang out with my team,  however to get certain things accomplished in the hotel, I am often pulled out of that environment.

Head Chef Brad Sloane has combined modern British influences with classic gastro-pub fare at the recently re-opened

in Sydney’s Balmain. High-end food specials and unique foodie events are all on the menu at this venue.

It’s Monday night and a hotel in inner-west Sydney is doing a roaring trade. There are patrons doing “blind” food and wine tastings and others competing against one another in their foodie knowledge.
Welcome to “Food Trivia” night at The Riverview Hotel in Balmain. A unique way to entice the masses a little further afield from the heart of the glittering Emerald City.
Head Chef Brad Sloane explains: “Foodie Trivia is an interactive trivia night, hosted weekly by our ex-Restaurant Manager, David Myers.  It takes your average pub quiz night to a new level with questions based broadly on food, wine and travel, as well as interactive elements, such as food and wine ‘blind’ tastings. Each week the winning team receives vouchers to leading Sydney restaurants.”
And, it’s not the only way the hotel is becoming known as a unique “foodie” destination, with special events, like a recent New Zealand Produce and Wine Dinner, and menu specials that go beyond the norm – including catering for those hunting for unusual, higher-end items.
Sloane, who trained with the Michelin-starred Billy Reid at West London’s Belvedere Restaurant, has helped turn the recently re-opened Riverview into the new favourite local. The chef, who has a rotating roster of seven chefs and two kitchen hands, has hit the nail on the head with his mindset – that of constant innovation.
Sloane knows that adding new products and menu items attracts new customers and keeps existing patrons interested. After all, consumers today are savvier and more demanding than ever before – and they’ll no doubt be rewarded at The “Riv”. BISTRO spoke to Brad Sloane about his unique vision.
Tell us about your career history?
I started an apprenticeship – aged 18 – at The Silos Restaurant and Winery in [NSW’s] Berry in 1998. Then, I travelled overseas, working in kitchens throughout the UK and Canada. I returned to Sydney, working at Hugo’s Bondi, Local in Paddington, and Restaurant Balzac in Randwick.
Who are a few chefs you really respect?
Matthew Kemp (Restaurant Balzac), Billy Reid (The Belvedere, London) and [British Chef and Restaurateur] Marco Pierre White.
How would you define Riverview customers? Is it a price-sensitive crowd?
The Riverview clientele is a good mix of local residents and diners from the wider Sydney area. They are food-savvy and expect quality for their dollar, but are prepared to pay for the experience.
How do you address this in your menu?
By sourcing our own produce at the veg and fish markets twice a week, we are able to provide a high quality menu at a reasonable price point. This, we couple with weekly specials that cater for the higher spender looking for higher-end items.
What are the challenges to running a great restaurant at the hotel?
Running a seven-day-a-week restaurant, as well as feeding a busy bar out of a small kitchen, presents many challenges. In a busy service, six chefs stand shoulder-to-shoulder, with minimal room to manoeuvre. To make this work takes a high level of organisation and kitchen management, as well as structuring the menus accordingly.
The Riv’s menu is both traditional and innovative, with dishes like Beef Cheek Schnitzel and Ham Hock and Black Pudding Ravioli. Where do you get your ideas?
Menu ideas come from a combination of eating out, what’s in season at the markets, brainstorming with my team and utilising their experience, and thinking outside the square a little, whilst still remaining true to our English gastro-pub ideal. We experiment regularly, but these ideas need to go through a rigorous process before they make the menu.
You’ve said you’re a big fan of food ‘done properly’. Please elaborate.
No shortcuts, everything prepared daily, everything from scratch (including our own bread and butter!). No molecular gastronomy here….real food for real people.
How do you keep your skills current? How do you train your staff?
Keeping an interest in current food trends, reading, talking with other chefs… Staff training is very hands-on – we all work side-by-side. I like to show junior chefs how to break down whole beasts, how to use the whole animal, how to respect the ingredients we use and the costs involved in attaining them.
Do you watch out for your competitors?
Not really. We tend to concentrate on what we do here and what our customers are telling us. And, try to do it the best we can each day!

From our BISTRO interview with Dennis Leslie, the Executive Chef of the Adelaide Hilton Hotel, it’s easy to see that his heart is in the right place and there are always new challenges on the road to mastering one’s craft.

To the naked ear, the word ‘McDonald’s’ sounds incongruent with the word ‘cheffing’, but to anyone hiring in hospitality, ‘the golden arches’ sings a different tune: one of cleanliness, sections, teamwork and odd hours. Recruitment is often quick to nab young candidates possessing such disciplines, as appears to have been the case with Dennis Leslie. “I was studying at University and working at McDonald’s as a breakfast cook,” he explains, “I got sick of studying and tried for a hospitality traineeship at the Hilton Adelaide, got the job, and dropped out of Uni. I was in the last months of my traineeship as a steward (washing dishes), when the Executive Chef approached me and asked if I was interested in cooking after doing a ‘plate-up’ in a catering exercise. She organized for me to go to TAFE. I finished my studies and became a breakfast chef shortly after. Bethany Finn, the former Executive Chef of Hilton, was the person who started my career, and Simon Bryant (the Executive Chef after Beth) was the person who fostered my interest in cooking. Simon taught me pretty much everything I know about how to be an Executive Chef.”
Like many of Australia’s most talented chefs, Leslie found a trip to Europe to be the perfect challenge to putting his skills and discipline to the test, although it originally stemmed from a conflict of faith. “At the beginning, I was trying to wean myself out of cooking,” he explains, “I left Australia tired and quite disengaged with cooking.  I was young and blasé, but thought I would give cooking one last crack before deciding my future. I thought the European cooking culture would definitely destroy every ounce of passion I had, but instead I got more hooked.”
“The passion for cooking over there is extreme. The lengths they go to for perfection is phenomenal. For the die-hard cooker it at first becomes daunting, then scary, but then comfortable, and finally addictive.  By the end of my European cooking stint, I was exhausted but hungry to show off my skills. I found what I was looking for: it re-energized my passion for cooking.”
In Europe, Leslie worked at Seasons Restaurant in Dublin with Christophe Gravois; Le Petit Blanc in England and in Edinburgh with French-born British Chef Raymond Blanc; and Rick’s Restaurant in Edinburgh. “The restaurant that defined me as a chef and a manager,” he says, “would have to be Seasons at Four Seasons, Dublin. It was a culture shock for me and the rules were so definite it was intimidating. Their skill level and culture is magnificent. If we had their enthusiasm for perfection we would definitely be hard to beat in the food world. Although the ingredients we have, and the accessibility to those ingredients, are more accommodating here than over there.  I think education about foods and how we can use them at their optimum (getting the most nutritional value out of them) is the next step. And developing a culture where food is not only known for is barest necessity— sustenance— but also as a means of enhancing relationships and creating memories. Italians do it so well!”
So what is Leslie’s definition of a great dish? “It doesn’t have to use the most outrageously expensive ingredients, or use the most technical cooking methods— or even be made by the best chef in the world. Just a balance in flavours, textures, ‘doneness’, nice presentation and using the freshest ingredients.”
With this in mind, we are keen to know more about the specials board at the Hilton’s Brasserie Restaurant, where there is a structured approach: “The Brasserie focuses on the six different regions of South Australia.  For two months of the year, our specials board showcases dishes from a specific region such as Kangaroo Island, which means all the produce and wines are sourced from that region.  Our specials change weekly to cater for the ‘long-stay’ hotel guests as well as to keep my Chefs inspired and challenged with new ingredients and produce each week.”
Leslie is described as having jointly spearheaded the ‘Seriously South Australian’® campaign with mentor Simon Bryant, so we ask him to explain his interest in this initiative. “We are lucky to have the support of all the local suppliers, growers and producers in South Australia. It’s such a great concept that a lot of people believe in and they are eager to play a role in the campaign. We get the first choice of the best produce in SA. There is hardly any travel time. For example, the lettuce we use is picked in the morning from a farm in the Adelaide Hills, and arrives at our doorstep before our afternoon Chefs walk in the door.  We put a rainbow trout on the menu, the suppliers pluck the fish from the dams in the morning and I pick it up in an iced Esky by mid-morning. Add to that, Hilton Adelaide is right next door to Adelaide Central Markets, and it really does make it harder to choose produce rather than being hard-up for choice!”
If so, we wondered, would Leslie create new dishes around the market, or approach the market for specific ingredients he would like for a new dish? “There are different types of dining experiences: room service, catering, restaurant, bars, buffet service and short order menus.  Every menu caters for different types of guests with different needs.  In the restaurant for instance, it is dictated to what is available and in season— so nature is more our client there!  We want to educate our diners too, about our food and what is available in this state.”
Where then, does Leslie find his inspiration for new dishes? Does he experiment? How does he stay innovative? “I love to eat out a lot and see what people are doing,” he says, “The biggest impact for me is cook books, especially photos.  I don’t even look at recipes, sometimes photos are enough to spark an idea, more to the point of “yeah I could use that ingredient there” or “ I like how that was cooked” or simply “I like that plate!”  Cooking is a subject too big to master, but you can become good at it, and by becoming good you have to learn by eating out, experimenting, reading and asking questions. I learn from everyday home cooks too. In fact, I thoroughly enjoy learning from home cooks.”
Does this approach, we wonder, fit into a specific Leslie style of cooking? “I’m more guided by the ingredients I cook with and what is available, the people I’m cooking for, and the type of evening or setting the meal is to be eaten in. My mother being a Filipino, I grew up eating Filipino food and cook more of those dishes at home.  Then again, I love cooking pastas and I have no Italian in me!”
With such a proactive approach to his role, we ask what Leslie finds most challenging about being Executive Chef for the Hilton Adelaide, “Paper work and meetings!”, he says, “I’m not made to sit still for long periods discussing numbers and targets. For the last 15 years my head has been trained to think creatively about food, flavours, ingredients, dish compositions and menu engineering. Now I am being re-trained to become an accountant, counsellor, mediator, goal-setter and administrator too – among other things – but I am enjoying the challenge and developing new skills.”
As an employer, then, it seems pertinent to ask what qualities Leslie believes is a MUST requirement for hiring new staff? “Passion -,” is the appropriate first word answer, “cook with love because people can taste the bitterness that non-passionate people cook with.  A lot of people’s good memories of food are cooked by their loved ones, mother, father or grandparents and they’re usually the best meals you have ever had. And resilience, because sometimes this industry knocks the passion right out of you, if you’re not on your toes!” Lastly, he explains, “Educate yourself about different cultures. Understand why – beyond cooking – some people love it so much, what food ‘truly means’ to some people, cultures, and more importantly, to you. If you don’t get the sense of joy or achievement from cooking up a perfect stock, or a perfectly baked bread, or even the perfect sandwich— or serving up the last dish after a grueling twelve hour day— then get out now, because cooking is not for you!”
Socrates, the Grecian father of all philosophy, said he knew nothing. Dennis Leslie, it appears, has a similar modesty. Whilst operating as an Executive Chef, he acknowledges that to be masterful is to be innovative, and to be innovative is to always be learning.

PR: wait… I: wait… L: wait… LD: wait… I: wait… wait… Rank: wait… Traffic: wait… Price: wait… C: wait…

The Japanese-born food guru will launch a modern French-Japanese restaurant (similar to Tetsuya’s in Sydney) in Singapore luxury hotel resort and casino Marina Bay Sands by July’s end – his first establishment outside of Oz.

The eatery, named Waku Ghin after the “silver metal” knives in the chef’s collection, will have a highly personalised service, with seating for just 28 guests, and diners encouraged to move throughout different sections of the restaurant during their courses. Still, the space isn’t tiny, covering a whopping 740sq m.

Features will include a sake bar, caviar lounge, 3000-bottle wine collection, and floor-to-ceiling views of the Singapore skyline. The reservations list is expected to be no shorter than Tetsuya’s in Sydney, which is usually booked out for months in advance.

Tetsuya is rated as one of Australia’s finest chefs on the S. Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants list.

One ingredient that will be on the menu at his Singapore restaurant, which isn’t available in Sydney, is bamboo crab. Tetsuya describes it as having the texture of sea cucumber.

Tetsuya plans to visit the eatery a few times a month, spending the rest of his time at his Sydney base. One day, he also hopes to open a restaurant in his birth country, Japan.

Source: www.insing.com

The Australian-trained butler is in strong demand all over the world, and butlering is a great career move for people-oriented chefs.

Brittanica.com defines a butler as “a chief male servant of a household, who supervises other employees, receives guests, directs the serving of meals, and performs various personal services”.

One of the most famous fictional butlers, is Reginald Jeeves in the short stories and novels of P. G. Wodehouse.  Jeeves, as a “gentleman’s personal gentleman” or valet, is rather more than a mere butler. He is firmly in control of his rich and foppish young employer’s life. When his principal gets into an unwanted social obligation, legal trouble, or engagement to marry, Jeeves invariably comes up with a subtle plan to save him, often without his principal’s knowledge.

Jeeves frequently displays mastery over a vast range of subjects, from philosophy through an encyclopedic knowledge of poetry, science, history, psychology, geography, politics, and literature. He is also a ‘bit of a whiz’ in all matters pertaining to gambling, car maintenance, etiquette and women.

‘Jeeves’ is now a generic term for an indispensable person in references such as the Oxford English Dictionary, and became the name of a British search engine ‘Ask Jeeves’ (www.ask.com).

So should Australian butlers try to live up to Jeeves’ reputation? BISTRO spoke with Pamela Spruce, chief executive of Australian Butler Services and the principal of Australian Butler School (www.australianbutlers.com).

“The modern butler is far from being a quaint relic of the aristocratic England of a century ago,” Spruce says.  “The thoroughly modern breed of butlers – especially Australian butlers – is increasingly in demand.”

For a start, butlering is no longer an exclusively male profession but is open to both males and females. The butler is in charge of everything, from the household budget to the everyday running of the household. They prepare the guest rooms and arrange and plan special dinners and receptions given by their employers. Some even become the personal assistant to the people they work for, taking care of all  their secretarial needs.

“It is fairly common for individuals with a cheffing background or qualification to progress their career into butlering or household management,” she says.   “We’ve had many students over the years who have completed our butler-training course following a successful career as a chef.”

A strong factor in their favour is that chefs generally are well organised, have experience in budgeting, purchasing and inventories, are detail oriented and conscious of workplace safety.

BISTRO asked two chefs who have made the change to butler – Darryl Attiwell and Nathan Van de Belt – about life as a butler.

Darryl Attiwell

“I love my new career. This role is expanding all the time. With diversity come a lot of responsibilities. My days are never the same,” says Darryl.  “My role includes managing lifestyle aspects: clothing, personal needs, property etc.” He still does internal catering, and his cheffing skills let him get the best occasions, while he outsources catering for the bigger events.

What are the most important qualities for a butler?

Time management. Multiple professional skills  – Australian butlers are dynamic professionals who know a lot  and can do the lot: cooking; estate management; PA; management of boats/jets etc.

Most important: a butler has to know how to conduct himself in a professional manner. Being professional includes knowing how to maintain confidentiality. A butler cannot discuss any aspect of their job with their friends or other butlers. As the services they provide  relate to very personal aspects of their principal’s life, butlers must keep their lips tightly closed at all times.

Do you ever feel lonely sometimes?

“This job is not everyone’s cup of tea. But it’s given me  the ability to travel within Australia and overseas, and to meet very interesting people every day. The diversity of the role means I learn new things all the time.

“As you work with one principal and you’re good at what you’re doing, you gain more experience and more trust. With trust comes more and more responsibilities and different tasks… The sky’s the limit!”

How would a chef get a job as a butler?

“There is no shortage of jobs for the right individual in Australia or overseas. Talk to Australian Butler School – they have great jobs. Look at the jobs in the newsletters of International Guild of Professional Butlers. There are big opportunities for the right person. “If you work for a principal who has multiple estates in different countries, boats, jets etc (which is common) – this would be an interesting job.”

Nathan Van de Belt

Nathan started his chef’s career washing dishes in a very small restaurant in Queensland.  Very soon he became interested in cooking, so in 1988 he took an apprenticeship in the Hyatt Coolum kitchen.

When we asked Nathan does he still like to cook, his answer was: “I love it!”

Working as a chef at the British High Commission, Nathan was presenting fine dinners for groups from 20 to 2000 people, making everything from scratch. He says he ‘fell into’ butlering. When one of the butlers at the British High Commission left and another one did not work out, Nathan found himself taking all the responsibilities on his shoulders. He enjoyed the variety of the role, so he decided to polish up his skills at the Australian Butler School.

“Being able to cook professionally is a big advantage. I cook for all small functions and when I hire other chefs to cook for bigger events, I can make absolutely sure that the event runs smoothly and the food is up to the highest standard.

“I have been working for a few people as a butler. At first they ask me to cook specific meals etc, then when they realise I really know cooking, they leave everything in the kitchen up to me. Let’s say I’m asked to do a four-course dinner for six. I will go to the markets, look for the best and freshest produce on the day. No dinner is the same.”

There are unexpected benefits of not being in the commercial hospitality world, he says.

“Being a non-commercial fine dining chef has a lot of pluses. I have a lot of friends in hospitality; all of them have to deal with commercial realities of this world: profit margins, labour costs etc. The cost of my dishes often is 50% produce and 50% labour. I do have value factor in mind, but I am also able to cook very amazing dishes.”

What makes this job so attractive to you?

“I have variety everyday. There are a lot of different things to look after: the property, boat, car etc. My days are never same.”

Do you meet a lot of interesting and powerful people?

“Yes, of course. But honestly speaking, I like to take care of everyone. Big names do not faze me; I like to make sure everyone is properly looked after. It is different for different people. I moved back to Queensland, even the money here is lower than I can get elsewhere in Australia or overseas, but I really enjoy the balance I have now between my work and my lifestyle.  It’s a matter of personal choice and ambitions. Here in Queensland, for example, I know about a dozen big names who would employ  a chef/steward/butler – that sounds like a good job for me.”

What are the qualities a butler needs?

“You have to really love taking care of people. It brings me a great deal of satisfaction to provide this personalised service. I know how my employers like things to be done; I like to get all these little details right for them. You have to be a people person to be a good butler, and you have to be prepared to work very hard.”