Nowadays, the amber fluid has a more sophisticated image. Aussie blokes – and sheilas – are just as likely to sip on a boutique, international beer as, say, a lower-end, local brew.

Beer lovers are seeking to sample more varieties, from diverse places, and to even be able to – like wine – match their fave beverage with food.

Yes, finally, beer has found its rightful place on the dining table!

Providing beer menu lists at your venue – which match beer products with particular dishes – could prove a boon for business. So, why not join the food-beer movement, like others have?

Premium beverage company Foster’s has recruited Sydney chef and restaurateur Peter Evans, of Hugo’s, to promote food-matching with Belgian beers in its portfolio.

Fellow company Lion Nathan also established a nationwide James Squire Chef’s Match contest, which encouraged chief cooks from each state to go head-to-head in pairing their recipes with Aussie craft beers.

And, matching beer with food is actually quite the art. The first step often involves smelling the drink’s aroma and just concentrating on the flavours. Next, beer lovers can take a sip, together with a small amount of food, breathing in a little air through the alcohol. From there, they can judge whether the flavours highlight, sharpen, disagree with or even overpower the fare.

Combining different flavours and textures and, of course, applying one’s own personal taste can also contribute to the fun. For example, highly carbonated and bitter brews can help cleanse the palate and “cut through” strongly-flavoured dishes.

Sydney-based Kirrily Waldhornis

beer

an expert at matching beer with culinary dishes. Last year, she was a guest judge and speaker at the Great British Beer Festival.

On her site, Waldhorn lists various “made in heaven” food/beer matches, including an Australian-style pale ale with a scampi salad appetiser and a hoppy Czech Pilsener with a main course of spicy Moroccan marinated lamb and couscous. Another tempting idea is a glass of chocolate stout with a mud cake dessert. Yum!

As meal and beer pairing becoming increasingly popular, there are more and more foodservice operators taking advantage from newly emerged trend. For example a Spring Feast at The Local Taphouse in Darlinghurst, NSW is coming in September. Here, customers can ring in the start of the season with a four-course meal and eight spring-inspired beers.

Also in September, a tasters’ club, dubbed The Beer Experience, is being held at the Penrith Panthers club. Here, diners will get to feast on a six-course degustation, expertly matched with beers to bring out their true flavours. The guests will also learn a little of the history of beer and just how to marry dishes with their fave beverage. Food for thought, indeed.

Matching beer with food? We’ll drink to that!

Last November Canadian cattle ranchers began feeding red wine to their herds, and the product has been met with thunderous applause from everyone from regular consumers to top Canadian chefs. Jandince Ravndahl started feeding her cows one liter of red wine a day, the equivalent of about one glass for humans. Ravndahl claims the cattle enjoy eating the red wine mixed into their feed, and that the resulting beef tastes more tender, almost like it’s self-marinated. Ravndahl’s grass-fed, wine-drunk beef is taking off among the culinary elite. And while red wine and grass-fed beef are two great tastes that undoubtedly taste great together, wine-fed beef threatens all the recent progress made in the sustainable meat movement.

There are some scientists who are working on uncovering potential benefits of wine-fed beef. One study hypothesizes that wine-drunk cows may lessen methane production, which could have some green benefits for our planet. Livestock produce about 18 percent of the world’s global greenhouse gas emissions, with one cow burping up 26 to 53 gallons of methane each day, according to Food Safety News. And another research team thinks the resveratrol in red wine might boost heart health in cows the same way it does in humans.

PR: wait… I: wait… L: wait… LD: wait… I: wait… wait… Rank: wait… Traffic: wait… Price: wait… C: wait…

Zannie Flanagan, recently   made a Member of the Order of Australia for promoting regional produce believes that the primary role of farmers markets is to serve the local community and that the benefits of promoting ‘regionality’ to high end restaurants and tourism are secondary.

“Regionality does not come from high-end restaurants,” Flanagan told a food tourism summit at Tasting Australia in Adelaide. “Such a marketplace is not created in and of itself for tourists.”

Flanagan, who founded the Willunga Markets in 2002 and then went on to establish the Adelaide Showground farmers markets says that such markets are bigger draw cards than many of the Government funded tourism events.

‘Authentic’ and ‘hands-on’ are the new buzz words in food tourism as people look for an experience or skill to take home.

Fifteen per cent of the 1010 Australians polled in April this year, said they go out for breakfast once a week or more.

Thirty-two per cent enjoy dining out for an evening meal each week while 38 per cent go out for for lunch.

Overall, the Galaxy Research found 20 per cent of Australians aged 18 or older were eating out more this year than in 2009, with one in three Australians going out for a meal once a week.

But the American Express Dining Insights Research also found one in four Australians were ordering healthier meals than they were 12 months ago. 
”Australians have a love affair with eating out but more and more they are balancing up the need to look after their health and their waistline,” said Mr Geoff Begg, vice president of Merchant Services Australia at American Express.

“More than ever, Australians are better educated about what they are eating and the area of demand is great tasting food that is good for you,” said John Hart, CEO of Restaurant and Catering Australia.

The Dining Insights study revealed it was the 18 to 34-year-olds choosing healthy meals in NSW, with 33 per cent opting for salads when eating out. This compared with only 12 per cent of those over 50.

More men are choosing to eat healthy meals when eating out in Victoria and NSW compared to women, while in South Australia and Queensland it’s the women who are choosing to eat healthy meals.

Chefs will always, where possible, build menu items from the ground up (stocks, portions, seasoning, garnishes) and the management of time and labour factors that allow for this is the strength of any good kitchen roster. Yet, would chefs be willing to roll up their sleeves any further? Attempting to build those flavours from beneath the ground up? This article stems from BISTRO’s furrowed investigation into unearthing the distinct advantages chefs might glean from cultivating their own herbs which, we discover: can help cut costs, articulate menu engineering, craft fuller flavours, deliver on consistency and— can even bring you pleasure!

The ‘pitch’

One man’s chore is another man’s indulgence, the main difference being our attitude to the procedure and the results we gain from it (washing the car, off to the gym anyone?). So how do you pitch the prospect of growing your own herbs to a busy Head Chef (averaging 12 hours a day) for use in their commercial kitchen? Dan Hunter, Head Chef of The Royal Mail Restaurant in Dunkeld, Victoria (winner of the 2010 AHA Award for Best Restaurant: Country) says, “It’s important to factor in the enjoyment you can get from growing these plants,” and as for the costs? “Compare a bunch of herbs for $3 to a packet of 200 seeds for $3”. Okay, so now we have the attention of our Italian readers—there is a savings to be had!

Speaking of Italians, we approached Geoff Hudson from The Italian Gardener (www.theitaliangardener.com.au) who explains, “Herbs start to lose flavour and appearance immediately after they have been picked.” So what, we ask, are the advantages to growing your own? “They are always fresh and consistent. You know their origins. The ability to pick your own herbs is a great advantage. Farmer’s market produce is good and will last a week or so, but supermarket herbs can sit in a cool room for weeks. There is no wastage and the flavours are more pungent, so you use less of the produce.” Bells ringing yet?

Sowing seeds: Annuals & Perennials

Simply put, perennials are plants that last more than two years whilst annuals germinate and flower and die all within a year (or a season). This distinction might help you structure the arrangement of your pots or garden. Hudson suggests chefs begin with perennials such as sage, thyme and oregano or annuals like basil, parsley, coriander, dill, chives and chervil (all so good for taste and garnish). Dan Hunter suggests getting started with those used commonly, such as parsley (annual) or thyme, sage and rosemary (perennials). Although—if you excuse my pragmatism— why not cultivate the herbs you’re already using to define your own comparison?

We talked to Frances Jackson, the General Manager of Sydney’s Royal Botanic Gardens, who explains that annuals (such as basil and dill) require a lot of water and a lot of sun. For those who wish to cultivate their own quality herbs, you will need to be able to access as much sun as possible; a minimum of ¾ day (or 6-8 hours) in open sun is preferred or difficulties may arise. Hence, a rooftop terrace, Jackson says—for urban restaurants— is ideal.

Herbs to avoid

Hudson says, “They are all worth giving a go, it’s just annuals need more work as they need to be replanted each year,” whilst Hunter’s word of advice is, “Stay away from mint, as it will tend to take over a garden. Tropical herbs can be difficult if you live in the South. Frost can be difficult for things like coriander, but the worst thing you can do is to allow any herbs to go to seed.” On this, Jackson reiterates, “the challenge with all herbs is to stop the plant from flowering.” By tip-pruning, or picking leaves by hand and cutting above the node, you can avoid this. “Flowering is only a problem with annuals not for perennials,” she says, “and thyme and rosemary require good drainage so they don’t get wet feet.”

Note on irrigation: when planting, use water crystals in the potting mix. They create a good reservoir and keep your potting mix damp. Don’t allow your soil to dry out, keep moist. Some herbs wilt faster than others and may require more frequent watering, particularly during hot weather, and if grown in containers. Herbs bounce back from wilting, but try to avoid it.

Specifics to get started

In most cases, for herbs to be grown at a restaurant, pots can be accommodated more readily than the space required for a garden. For commercial use, the medium sized pot (400mm diameter) is recommended and square pots are more spatially efficient. There is no advantage to using bigger pots. “No more than four plants per pot,” says Jackson, “Plants compete for space, and any more means they won’t grow as well, but Rosemary only needs one plant per pot.”

“Perennials,” she says, “need a good potting mix and a complete fertilizer (plant food that contains all three primary nutrient elements: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) such as Osmocote®. For commercial kitchens, stay away from using ‘poo pellets’– which can be a health problem. Use a coated fertilizer pellet instead.”

When planting, seedlings are recommended over seeds but if you can’t get seedlings, cultivate your own seedlings from seeds, and transplant them into those rooftop pots you have selected for your ‘garden’. The main reason being, that not all seeds grow to seedling stage so it’s best not to gamble on your allotted commercial pot space. The flipside to this though, Hudson says, is that “Many good varieties are not available in Australia, such as the Italian heirlooms produced by Franchi.” So to really ‘roll up your sleeves’ in the cultivation of your own flavours, commit to nurturing seeds into seedlings and access the 40-odd varieties of herbs (some with over 200 years of pedigree) with the click of a button at The Italian Gardener website. Pretty good value for an average spend of $4.50. Maggy Beer is a fan, saying “Some of my favorite meals have come from produce grown from seeds from the Italian Gardener… the result is exactly what I remember seeing in markets in Tuscany.”

Guerilla dining sets a new pace in the food scene. Traditional establishments would do well to take note

They have no signage. They don’t advertise. And, their seating space is limited. In fact, it’s like dining in a friend’s home.

Welcome to a new phenomenon making waves in the culinary world in Australia – underground or “guerilla” dining.

British celebrity chef Jamie Oliver lifted the lid on the trend in a TV special on secret supper clubs in New York last year. Since then, such exclusive dining spots have sprung up across Australia’s eastern seaboard.

Michael Fantuz is behind underground dining spot Tablefor20 in Sydney. (Check out the blog, www.tablefor20.blogspot.com.) While not in his home, the eatery is based in a converted terrace building in the inner-city suburb of Surry Hills, with an open space downstairs with two long tables, seating 44, and an upstairs watering hole, known as Sticky Bar. The only sign of activity outside is a business card holder out the front. Diners text or call to book a seat at the venue, open Wednesdays to Saturdays.

Fantuz, who has worked in the restaurant trade since he was 17, including as a food and beverage director at the Ritz-Carlton internationally, said a “combination” of factors led to him starting the venture four years ago. “I used to have a lot of friends and regulars from my previous restaurant, who’d come over and bring a bottle, and I’d cook dinner for them. It was very low-key and just at home. (Then) some friends of mine really encouraged me to do it on a ‘larger scale’, so to speak. I’d been to a few places that roll in this type of way in Tuscany and Milan. I didn’t know if Sydney would be ready for it. (But) the numbers stacked up – and the passion.”

The risk appears to have paid off. When we contacted Fantuz in July, both Tablefor20 and Sticky Bar were booked out for the entire year. The Italian-style eatery offers diners a three-course, set menu, which changes daily depending on “how the weather is, what we feel like doing and what’s in season”, according to Fantuz.

The eatery has a real communal dining feel. “All the food is served in platters, which get put down between every five people. People just pass around the food and share, like how I ate at home,” Fantuz enthuses. While he originally cooked all the dishes each night, he’s since handed the reins over to Steven Zielke – a “young, energetic chef, who enjoys home-cooked, robust Italian meals”. Fantuz says: “We’re using fresh ingredients, as opposed to cooking so many things in advance or pre-cooking and then just ‘finishing off’, like conventional kitchens do. (Doing that) you can lose that desire for actually cooking food, as opposed to just finishing it.”

Another place keeping in step with this trend is Bite Club, which is actually based in a home abode in the well-heeled Sydney suburb of Woollahra. (Check out biteclubsydney.blogspot.com). The venture was started by interior designer Debra Cronin, who owns the pad, but is now managed by housemate Virginia Hookham.

From the street, the building is fairly nondescript but, inside, there’s antique French furniture and intricate, high ceilings and, in the courtyard, a trickling fountain. “We are very underground. Our neighbours don’t even know what we’re doing,” Hookham quips.

The eatery’s blog is updated daily, so potential diners know how many seats are left at its degustation dinners, which cater for up to 16 guests several times a month. There are singles events and open-to-all-foodies events. On the popularity of the venture, Hookham says: “I think that people are just looking for something different -
a bit of intrigue.”

As for what other establishments can glean from the success of these underground dining spots? Fantuz says they’ve put the spotlight back on the romance of hospitality. “The first thing (in hospitality) is how you serve and treat the customer – it’s not how refined you put down a plate in front of them. It’s how you make them feel first – how you anticipate their needs, acknowledge your regulars by name, know what they like to drink, and have it there before they ask for it. There is a romance to genuine hospitality.”

No customer or bistro manager would blink at finding a crisp New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or earthy Pinot Noir on an Australian wine list— nor a celebrative French Champagne for that matter— but there is a certain cosmopolitan joy in discovering a flinty Pouilly Fume or Sancerre; toasty Chianti Classico or velvety Valpolicella; a genuine Gewürtztraminer or a Californian Zinfandel on that Aussie wine list too. And the prospect of finishing a meal with a vivacious Moscato D’Asti or brooding Pedro Ximénez—lord forbid a vanilla-honeyed Monbazillac— can often be more rewarding than the punchy apricot typicality of an all-too ‘goody two-shoes’ Noble One. It is roughly about ‘here’, then, that— as they say— the list goes on, especially where the whole world of wine becomes your oyster (for want of a better expression!). Where restaurant tables are known to ‘talk’— as far as service points to bring a waiter to the customer (crossed cutlery, low water, salts left after clearing)— a restaurant’s menus should be known to ‘sing’, and where a wine list has an international choir to sing with, the customer can play conductor, and will often engage more passionately with the harmonies of their dining experience (and engage more with the waiter: your primary point of sale). With this in mind, we have determined to learn more about the pros and cons required to negotiate that demarcation point, between offering a standard local wine list, and a list with international credential.

We approached three leading advisors: Maurizio Ugge, the General Manager of Arquilla (importer of fine Italian wine and spirits); Matt Skinner—celebrity wine advisor (I hope I can use the term?) associated with Jamie Oliver’s Restaurant’s Fifteen; and John Clancy, the very knowledgeable sommelier at Sydney’s Guillaume at Bennelong Restaurant at the Opera House (a place to get more Bordeaux with your Figaro!). For the advantages of listing imported wines, Mr Skinner tells us, “Including imported wines on your list gives your customers greater scope and choice. Imported wines will give you a global perspective, and I’d like to think that circa 2010 we’re all a little more worldly and more comfortable with imported wines than we were a decade ago”. Mr Clancy says, “Imported wines often enhance and compliment the cuisine of the restaurant and keep Australian customers interested—they love to try new wines”. Ugge agrees, and reminds us that “people are traveling more, and watching TV shows where regions and wines are featured, which opens their eyes to imported choices”.

So which imports are the best sellers? Skinner notes, “they tend to be the usual suspects such as Italy, Spain, and France which— given their established and well-earned reputations— makes sense. But beyond that, provided the wine is good and that you are willing to put the time and effort into training your staff, I wouldn’t discourage you from including anything”. Clancy says “I’d have to say the number one best seller across the board is New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc— then it depends on the cuisine, but French and Italian would be the next most popular”.

Are there any tips about the mix, or the ratios of imported wines to local wines for a list? Ugge says “Usually it’s about 60% Australian and 40% imported; 70% is red wine and about 30% white, but this depends on the sommelier and chef for the style of wine they want. In the past, most imported wine used to be French, but now Italian is the most popular and Spain and Germany is growing. German Rieslings are very good, and very popular”. Clancy says, “It’s about 40% imported, but some fine-dining restaurants, like Marc (in Sydney) for instance, can be even more. Where a venue is cuisine specific, a new venture might start with 20-30% and increase as staff and customers are educated”.

What about the costs involved with imported wines, are their taxes and do you get value for money? Ugge explains, “The tax system for imported and Australian wine is the same, but there is an additional 5% duty on imported wine and the cost of transport”. Mr Clancy feels there shouldn’t be too much about the prices to discourage the inclusion of imports, saying “On all wines in Australia there is a WET payment (Wine Equalization Tax), so taxes don’t jump up just because they’re imports. The distributer has to pay for the stock when it arrives at the port of departure, then it takes 28 days to ship. This means the importer’s funds are tied up for a month, and there are shipping costs involved which have to be passed on, but an expensive imported wine is usually expensive not because it’s imported, but because it is a very good wine to start with”.

What other considerations are required when stocking imported wines? Skinner says, “This largely depends on the size and the nature of the business, but I always consider the balance by offering a spread of styles, price points, regions, and perhaps countries. Consistent supply is an issue if I’m pouring something by the glass- particularly if I am looking to do a volume-based deal”. Clancy says, “it’s good practice to offer your imported wines by the glass, which keeps stock moving. Customers will buy bottles more often after having tasted by the glass, which is good for return customers who will then regularly buy by the bottle and trust your advice”.

So, do you need a wine expert on wait staff to have imported wines? Mr Clancy: “I would say no, for smaller establishments—although you will need someone who can advise on the wines. Once you put them on the list, you are asking for inquiries, and if you can’t answer those inquiries, you’re going to look a bit silly. Oftentimes, the more you pay, the more elegance you get, which are unique subtleties. Like a really good Burgundy—Pinot Noir or Chardonnay— these can be around $300 on a wine list, and a textural mouthful which is more subtle than the Aussie style ‘booming front’. Guiding your customers here is about appreciation, and most diners who show a willingness to explore are already interested in having their palate guided”. Skinner believes, “It is hugely important to utilize a wine expert when compiling a wine list. A good list should reflect the nature of the business and take its customers into consideration, while also being easy to read, balanced, and above all else, profitable. Yes, wine consultants come at a price, but they will take all of the above into consideration which- if it’s not your area of expertise- is money well spent”.

Can our sommeliers give an example of where including imports has made a business boom? Skinner: “I helped establish Prince Wine Store in Melbourne in 1996. As a small independent, imported wines were a huge part of what we did to distinguish ourselves from competition. We couldn’t compete on price with big chains, so offered a far better range of imports and expert advice. Shortly after, we opened Circa Restaurant (also within the Prince of Wales complex) which quickly become known for its 1000 item wine list, a large slice of which was imported”. Clancy: “I have worked with a suburban Italian restaurant and we started with some inexpensive—but very good—Italian wines. There has been a type of Sicilian revolution in wine quality in the past ten years, and we had a Sicilian theme cuisine. The value on those wines for us was very good, and the flavours were different to Australia but no more expensive. We kept up-selling the Italian wines and customers responded well, so I brought in better and better wines—which were more expensive—but it took off. We started organizing ‘special dinners’ on the quiet nights (Monday & Tuesday’s) with a wine theme. Nearly every customer would choose to have our matching wines—especially our regulars, who nearly always turned up. That was in Habberfield, not known for high prices or fine-dining, so getting locals to order $140 bottles with confidence showed that our customers were willing to spend once given the right assurance”.

Is a long or a short wine list recommended? Mr Clancy advises, “This depends on the place and the space—where and how you can manage cellaring. The cost of keeping these wines too. Stocking a large selection is expensive, and doesn’t make money until it starts to move. If you get a good deal on bulk ordering, but it’s a high-end slow mover, those bottles may become your ‘old friends’ at every stocktake. Shorter lists will move more quickly, which can be easier for new ventures to manage”.

Why don’t we see more American wines on Aussie lists? Ugge explains, “Some problems are that they have similar grape varieties to Australia. The good wine is also expensive, and a lot comes from the one region– California, although the Pinot Noir from USA is very good”. Clancy also explains, “There has only ever been one serious importer—West Coast Wines—in Perth. Generally, they are expensive, but geeze—they’re good. Why do we not see more of them? I think the population in the USA is so great, and their wine produce so small in comparison, that they have no great ‘need’ to market strongly in export regions, so their prices stay high (hence become slow movers)”.

Any issues with cellaring? Mr Clancy, “You need to watch the temperature, certainly not too warm. Generally, you need space away from the kitchen, and away from dust and grease. If you can’t lie bottles down, you might want to desist from listing some of the high-end reds”.

Any final tips? John Clancy smiles, “Super Tuscans. Look them up, it’s a great little story. Some French influence on the Sangiovase grape since the 70’s, you might say. They are mostly high-end price points, but exceptional drinking. There are cheaper ones too, which you might call mini Super Tuscan’s. It’s a nice place to start for Italian wine”.

It seems then that the guidance, and appreciation, of ‘foreign’ wines on a menu can offer a bistro its own type of ‘Gruen Transfer’, where the initial confusion of a shopping mall’s structure (in this case your menu structure) can make customers forget what they came for and turn into impulse buyers. Stimulating those impulses becomes the seductive instruction of our well-versed sommeliers. Like travelling, the experience of something ‘foreign’ being explained to you makes it familiar, and this transition is always one of appreciation—which is very much like the difference between eating and dining. It is a sweet trap to fall into, and the type of quandary that many diners (and most reviewers!) wish to find themselves in— sometimes even hoping to be jostled into a particular ‘purchase corner’ so they can later claim to their bosses (for there is always a boss) “the waiter made me do it”. There we have a transition of responsibility, which is the flirtatious side of judicious wine consumption, one way or another.

Firstly, look at whether the trend actually makes sense for your restaurant. If you mostly attract steak lovers and you’re considering adding pheasant to the menu, it may not work so well. Restaurateurs need to stay true to their menu philosophy and provide the dishes their customers continually ask for.

Next, consider the cost. Sometimes introducing a new trend can require new equipment, kitchen modifications or even the addition of a new staff member, who is on top of the specialty (think sous-vide). As well, you must have space to store any newfangled equipment. So, the question to ask is: will the profits justify the expense and will your customers even care about this new cooking technique?

As well, it all comes back to location, location, location. Weigh up whether your establishment is really geographically suited to a new menu item. If it’s too unfamiliar, you may not even get an order for it.

When all else fails, research what the chefs you look up to are doing – read widely and surf the Internet. Seeing what respected chefs are doing can be a good guide to anticipating what today’s ever-sophisticated restaurant clientele are expecting next.

Finally, the main indicator, regarding whether a menu item will be a hit, is consumer demand. While it’s a chef’s responsibility to identify micro-trends and foresee what’s emerging, it will be the ringing of the cash register – or lack thereof – that will provide the ultimate test.

IN NEW YORK

Black garlic. Pitch-black cloves add a touch of the dark side to the sheep’s milk ricotta, fava beans and truffle oil crostini at the Smoke Jazz and Supper Club in Harlem. The garlic turns black courtesy of a fermentation process, is soft inside – and doesn’t have the unfortunate effect on one’s breath as traditional garlic! The darker variety has long been used in Asian cooking, despite the recent US buzz.

Black trumpet mushrooms. The inky-coloured fungi have been added to the lobster and sweetcorn bisque at the Oak Room at New York’s Plaza Hotel. Similar to chanterelles, the mushrooms come from specialty food purveyors.

Black walnuts.The Klee Brasserie in the Big Apple dresses its Muscovy duck paté with black walnuts. The darker nuts – said to be more nutty and mild than the usual ones – are also used in a walnut cake, with a cream cheese ganache.

Black chickpeas. These Italian legumes “pretty up” a double-cut, Colorado-grilled lamb chop dish at Delmonico’s Restaurant in lower Manhattan. Smaller than regular chickpeas, the black chickpeas have a slightly different taste, but are mostly about presentation.

AT HOME

Black garlic is also proving a hot ingredient in Oz, going on sale locally here in August last year. Movida Bar De Tapas in Melbourne has used the dark ingredient in a dish with charcoaled Berkshire pork fillet.

Black trumpet mushrooms have also been spied on the menu at the Sails on the Bay restaurant in the Melbourne suburb of Elwood – used in a sauté with a roast loin of lamb dish.