The Thin Cut

Whether it’s for cheesesteaks or Mongolian barbecue, shaved steak has proven to be a versatile option for generations of meat lovers.

The use of thinly sliced meat has been around for generations, and while us Aussies often tend to opt for a big slab of porterhouse or a giant T-bone on the barbie, many other cultures savour the flavour of this thinly sliced and easily prepared meat.

At the Genghis Khan Mongolian restaurant in Adelaide, the proprietor, Fon Lau, explains that thinly sliced meat came about through necessity in Mongolia originally. Because the weather was so cold, the meat would freeze and the people had no choice but to thinly slice their frozen meat for use in cooking.

Nowadays, he says, the meat is frozen quite deliberately in order to achieve the thinnest slice possible. In terms of beef, Lau says that most often they would utilise cuts such as topside or knuckle – not the most expensive cuts but when sliced so thinly will cook to perfection and remain tender.

Once the meat is frozen it is sliced (or shaved) on a commercial slicer to achieve the desired thickness and cooked to order in the traditional Mongolian restaurant.  Although the restaurant is classified as ‘all you can eat’, he says that all meals are cooked to order with customers choosing their own meat, vegetables and sauces to be cooked by chefs wielding huge chopsticks on a round grill. Even the cooking method has been around for generations – with the round grill said to represent the shields the ancient Mongols heated up and then cooked on with chopsticks similar to those used today.  Another popular use of thinly sliced meat is for the traditional Italian dish, carpaccio. A raw beef dish with its origins in the famous Harry’s Bar in Venice, and apparently named after the Venetian painter Vittore Carpaccio, it still remains a popular menu item in both traditional and contemporary Italian restaurants.

Traditionally, the dish is kept simple, comprising raw beef served very thinly sliced, drizzled with olive oil, a little lemon juice and frequently topped with capers. Some chefs will also add grated parmesan cheese to the dish.

According to Michelle Elia, Chef at Cicciolina Restaurant in St Kilda, beef carpaccio remains a really popular dish to have on their menu. She states that they also deviate from tradition by serving other dishes such as tuna carpaccio which are also popular.

In this sense the term ‘carpaccio’ frequently refers to the method of slicing and serving different forms of meat and seafood. But it is the traditional beef carpaccio that has stood the test of time.

When asked why she thinks it has remained a popular dish for so many years, Elia enthuses: “Because it’s light, and it’s usually a really good, high quality grade of meat that you would slice up thinly and serve raw. It’s tasty, just a lighter sort of meal option. That’s why I love it anyway, if you don’t want to have a massive meal it’s a good, light and tasty choice.”

Given that the meat is served raw in carpaccio, Elia stresses the importance of using top quality meat, stating that in her restaurant they would most often opt to use the eye fillet.

With carpaccio, the meat is not necessarily referred to as being ‘shaved’ and is not routinely sliced using a commercial slicer. It is however often frozen (or partially frozen) to make the thin slicing easier and more accurate.

Elia states that she has utilised both options for slicing in the past – commercial slicer and slicing by hand, and generally would freeze the meat first if they wanted wafer thin slices for their dish. She explains that thinner slices are usually required for a seafood carpaccio, and slightly thicker for the beef dish. When preparing carpaccio in her restaurant, Elia states that she tends to stick to the traditional serving of the dish. “We always try to use simple, fresh ingredients, you don’t want to overcrowd the dish, it’s important you are able to taste the quality beef.”

Another long-standing use of ‘shaved beef’ is the ubiquitous ‘Philly cheesesteak’. Invented in South Philadelphia in the 1930s, those native to Philadelphia are passionate about the dish.

According to Wikipedia, the meat traditionally used is thinly sliced rib eye or top round. Along with the thinly shaved and fried meat a white roll is stuffed with fried onions and cheese such as provolone. These days cheesesteaks are available at numerous specialty fast food restaurants throughout Philadelphia and the grease-filled buns are best sellers.

In Quebec, the use of very thinly sliced, or shaved, beef is hugely popular in a dish known as ‘Chinese Fondue’ or ‘Fondue Chiniose’. The fondue uses very thinly sliced beef tenderloin or sirloin, served on a platter, alongside a large pot of flavoursome beef broth filled with herbs, spices and vegetables.

The slices of meat are simply speared and immersed in the boiling broth to cook for a few seconds, then served with a variety of dips and sauces.

According to a French Canadian friend, the broth ingredients vary depending on the cook, and are often a closely guarded family recipe. The sharing of fondue is a common and relaxing way of spending time with friends and family.

According to Australian butchers, customers here would not commonly ask for ‘shaved steak’. We tend to use what’s more commonly referred to as ‘minute steak’ or ‘sandwich steak’ for preparing menu items like steak sandwiches. And that’s a different thing altogether.

Minute steak generally refers to a piece of meat that has been tenderised and will cook very quickly (hence the term minute steak) on a grill or barbecue. It is most often used in dishes like steak sandwiches or when consumers want a piece of meat that will cook quickly without any fuss. According to www.cuisine.com “minute steaks are usually sirloin, cut thinly to cook very quickly.”

So, it is clearly seen that the use of delicate, thinly sliced meat is popular in a variety of dishes. A variety of cuts can be used depending on the dish – and one thing is certain, they are all tasty and hugely popular dishes in various cultures.

But, I have to admit, despite repeated attempts and promising it would be ‘off the record’, the secret recipe for the Chinese Fondue broth my friend obtained from his mother has remained just that!

murray lion hotel

Murray Smith, Head Chef of Lion Hotel

BISTRO speaks to Murray Smith, Head Chef of Lion Hotel, South Australia.

Where were you working previously to The Lion Hotel? Please explain your background and work history.

I was the Head Chef at the Oxford Hotel in North Adelaide for two years, before that I travelled and worked overseas for almost three years. I worked in London for 12 months as a Sous Chef at the St Georges Hotel, then in Bermuda at the Coral Beach Tennis Club and Resort also as a Sous Chef. Prior to travelling I worked in Perth, Broome and Adelaide during my apprenticeship.

How did you come about to work as Head Chef at The Lion Hotel? Please explain the journey.

After travelling overseas, I returned to Adelaide to join owners Tim Gregg and Andrew Svencis as they transformed The Oxford Hotel into a vibrant, modern and contemporary hotel, working as Head Chef for two years. When they opened The Lion Hotel in December 1997 I moved with them as Head Chef and the rest is history.

Travelling and working in such diverse places exposed me to a variety of different cuisines, cultures and working environments so you can’t help but be influenced in some way by these experiences. It might be a sight or sound or fragrance that instantly takes you back to your travelling days and then inspires you to incorporate something into your next menu.

How long have you been at The Lion?

In April it was 11 years since I first joined The Lion. The industry has changed a lot during this time and obviously as a Chef it’s been important to keep abreast of these changes. Customers dining expectations and variety of dining occasions change as people age, and dining trends come and go so it’s important to always stay focused.

What (if any) changes did you implement at the restaurant?

Prior to The Lion opening, the business had been closed and the building unoccupied so there was plenty of opportunity to make a fresh start within the rich architectural heritage of the original brewery/hotel complex. As the owners also operated The Oxford, there were certain expectations on the level and quality of service.  I think one of the keys to overcoming this hurdle was to build a stable team of Chefs around me for long-term success. Of course you still need to get the mix of menu, price, service and ambience right, but without a good stable team behind you, it makes the proposition much more vulnerable.

Define the style of cuisine at The Lion.

Modern Australian.

What customers do you cater for? While it is now an iconic dining restaurant in Adelaide it is nevertheless a hotel. Do you have several markets? How do you cater for such variance?

I think this is part of the appeal of The Lion. You can drop by for a coffee under the verandah, or hold your annual conference in one of our event rooms. With seven function rooms, a bar, an award winning restaurant, a casual dining area, a restaurant and a gaming room, we appeal to such a broad audience.  Every space has a different feel and use, and yet we deliver the same commitment to customer service and quality across all facets of the Hotel.

We have a dedicated section of the kitchen that focuses solely on Functions and Events, so even if we have 200 people in the underground tunnels for a 21st or a black tie, five-course dinner for 110 in the Jerningham Room, we can still remain totally focussed on a full restaurant on a busy Saturday night.

I think the appeal also lies in the fact that you can have breakfast in Express in the morning, have an a la carte lunch or dinner in the restaurant, then move to the bar for a great night of live music all in the one venue that is right in the middle of North Adelaide.

Obviously when we plan our seasonal menu changes we ensure that there is always a diverse selection of food available – whether it be bar snacks, Lion Express or the restaurant. We also cater for people with differing dietary requirements such as gluten free, vegetarian and lactose free menu’s so we’ve obviously responded to the changing expectations of our clientele.

If you opened your own restaurant can you describe it to us?

It depends what day you ask me! But it would be a contemporary space with very relaxed atmosphere and an emphasis on quality ingredients cooked in a simple but technical way and always trying to showcase as much local produce as possible.

How do you keep your skills up? Do you eat out? Travel? Study?

Our latest educational trip was to Tasmania with our Sous Chef, two second year apprentices and one of the owners, Tim Gregg who is Tasmanian. One of the places we visited was Cape Grim on the north westernmost tip of the Tasmanian, renowned for the world’s most pure air. We source some of our beef from here, so it was fantastic to see firsthand, where our produce is reared and to appreciate the commitment to quality and the enthusiasm and professionalism of our suppliers. These sort of trips provide so much inspiration when you arrive back in the kitchen.

I also try to eat out as much as I can, but it’s not always possible with two young children. We do travel a bit with the kids and eat as much varied food as we can, which is a real education for the whole family, and give me the opportunity to see what other establishments are doing.

Name the chefs you admire and why?

Charlie Trotter – balance of flavours.

Gordon Ramsey – demands perfection.

Heston Blumenthal – pushes the boundaries and makes his diners think.
Jamie Oliver – makes cooking a total experience with his fun approach.

What are the unique challenges that face a Head Chef in Adelaide?

Keeping up with the changing marketplace is always a challenge, but this is what keeps you on your toes and makes you strive to continually perform at your best. In difficult economic times such as the GFC it’s been a balancing act trying to keep the business profitable, and creating seasonal menus that are exciting and appealing to both our regular clientele and new customers, and that’s just front of house!

Behind the scenes we have a terrific, enthusiastic team who want to learn – and we want to teach them, to inspire and foster their passion for food and creativity, and expose them to the other side of running a successful business so they consider the environmental, ethical and economic effects that can that impact their decisions in the kitchen. This helps to create a sense of worth and family which gives our staff a feeling of belonging and helps to mitigate the steady exodus that can exist in this industry.

taxi dining

Taxi Dining Room, Tony Twitchett interview

Tony Twitchett, the youngest of four boys, discovered his passion for food by preparing routine family meals with his mother and brothers.

At the age of 17, Tony moved to Melbourne to join his elder brothers Paul and Peter at Royal Arcade restaurant Luciano’s. He then moved on to start an apprenticeship at The Stokehouse, St Kilda in 1997 where he learned the culinary craft alongside well-known Chefs such as Michael Lambie, Paul Raynor, Jean Gorde Allen and Justin Pola.

Tony began working with Robert Cunningham after his apprenticeship and worked his way up to junior Sous Chef. During this time, Tony established his love for Chinese and Southeast Asian cuisines, which he explored while travelling through the region in 2002 and again in 2009.

Tony moved on for a stint at Ezards in the CBD before moving back to St Kilda to work with Chef Michael Lambie once again at Circa. The two developed a great friendship which continued when Tony joined him at Taxi Dining Room in Federation Square in 2004 and at the age of 26 was appointed Head Chef.

At the end of 2009, Tony – under Taxi Dining Room’s same umbrella company, Sovereign Hotel Group – opened Barkers Wine Bar & Bistro in Hawthorn, where his modern Australian gourmet cuisine challenged the notion of ‘pub grub’.

After a successful 12 months at Barkers, Tony has now come home to Taxi to take over the role as Executive Chef.

BISTRO speaks to Tony about Taxi Dining, the Melbourne dining scene  and where the pub ‘gastro’ scene is going.

1. What specific challenges are there in running a fine restaurant like Taxi Dining from a hotel environment?

Keeping the standards at an evenly high standard across the board (food, wine, service & ambiance).

Reaching everybody’s expectations, from a regular guest stopping in for a glass of wine & some sushi, through to a group visiting Melbourne for the first time and sampling from a premium nine course degustation.

Sourcing the best ingredients for my menus.

2. Can you describe the clientele at Taxi Dining Room?

The demographic of Taxi’s diners ranges from ‘ladies that lunch’ to businessmen, we have celebratory events in the venue on a regular basis and the amount of proposals is too high to count. We have hosted some of the biggest celebrities, homegrown and international and some of the world’s greatest political leaders.

3. How would you describe the style and food of the restaurant?

The food at Taxi is definitely ‘modern Australian with Asian influences’ (Chinese, Japanese and south east Asian) the style of Taxi is a ‘Destination Restaurant’, where you can come and enjoy the cuisine and watch the excitement of Melbourne from above.

4. The restaurant has managed to excel in not just amazing food but also wine, service and atmosphere. Given the fact your background is kitchen-based – how does a chef pull off the ‘Quadrella’?

Over the last 7 years Taxi’s been blessed with great heads of departments, the kitchen has had Michael Lambie and myself creating culinary delights, the restaurant’s atmosphere was created by a very ‘attention to detail’ front of house team, and the professional wine team has been headed by greats over the years. As they say, “A champion TEAM will always beat a TEAM of champions.”

5. How would you describe the restaurant scene in Melbourne at the moment?

It feels like it’s on the surge back up to its best, similar to pre-GFC. Most restaurants and dining rooms are spending money on their venues or opening new venues. In this industry you have to expand and grow with the demands, and with punters back out there dining, venues are striving to excite again.

6. Do you think too many restaurants in Melbourne are fixated on chasing the latest trends?

Yes, hence the flood of ‘Gastro pubs’ in Melbourne.

7. Which chefs do you draw your inspiration from?

David Chang, Kylie Kwong, Fuchsia Dunlop, Elizabeth David, just to name a few.

8. Do you employ many apprentices? What are the most important lessons for them?

Yes, we have six at the moment, which is a third of our kitchen. Most important lesson is to taste everything at every stage of cooking to learn about building flavours. Also learn to watch and listen, everyone’s a teacher of something, even your grandmother.

9. How do you continue to grow as a chef?

Eating out, reading and travelling (overseas and locally).

10. We are seeing more and more ‘gastro’ style pub restaurants – why do you think this trend is growing?

I think it was growing because everyone was eating locally – so the ‘local pub’ had to become food-orientated to satisfy our ‘food savvy’ community, Melbourne.

11. What advice would you give a hotel owner if considering opening a fine dining pub restaurant?

Every customer that calls, walks past the front door, looks at your website – is a potential customer. It is how you make them a customer – that’s what makes the difference between a business and a successful business.

And always, look after your locals as they are your bread and butter.

12. What does the future hold for you?

Now that I’m Taxi’s Executive Chef, I’m working closely with FOH & wine teams to extend Taxi’s future for another successful seven years and beyond.

BISTRO interviews Head Chef Leigh McDivitt, the man behind the success of the 3Weeds Restaurant, Balmain.

What are the unique challenges working in a ‘hotel’ dining environment?

Having two entirely different products does create a challenge. I have been trained and worked primarily in fine dining and had to spend some time getting to know the locals and the food that they liked. In the most part this really comes down to a lot of hard work as I fine-tune ‘The Restaurant’ menu and at the same time create a successful Gastro-Pub menu.

Describe the clientele at the 3Weeds restaurant?

Our market is mostly from around the inner west and on the weekends from across Sydney.  I am now happy to say that a majority of our market are ‘foodies’ and are really enjoying some of the newer, more challenging things I am doing.

The menu is not long – is there any particular reason for this?

The menu here has never been long and one of the main reasons for this is a real lack of kitchen space. The other important factor is my emphasis on quality as opposed to quantity and a constantly changing and evolving menu.

The 3Weeds also has a very popular bar menu. Can you explain the difference  in clientele between those sitting in your fine dining restaurant to those ordering from the bar?

Our market in the bar demands high quality food that is inexpensive and fast.

The restaurant diners are after a quieter, slower and more refined experience.

Do you produce the food from the same kitchen? What are the logistical problems associated with this?

We do and the space is divided into two sections. This has always been a challenge for previous chefs as well as myself.  The issue is to put out high production, quality food from one side and then the more refined and sophisticated food from another.

And you need to have the ‘right’ equipment.

Are there two sets of chefs? Does this create issues?

Take care in who you hire, there is a fine dining chef and a bar chef. These people are very different, have different skill levels and requirements, you need to make sure you find the right person for both sides.

Which is more profitable – fine dining or bar menu?

The bar, this is based on it being a high capacity space.

It’s our bread and butter!

Do you employ apprentices? – What are the biggest lessons for them to learn?

Yes.  This is a life commitment that requires passion and dedication.

The 3Weeds excels not just in food but service, ambiance and wine – how do you manage to do so well at all four with such a relatively small team?

The nature of our small and passionate team means that we are able to focus on the details and the relationships we have with our guests, things that are often overlooked in larger establishments.

Do you think we will see more great restaurants in traditional pubs?

I would hope so.

What are your observations of Sydney’s restaurant scene? What trends can you see over the next few years?

Sydney’s restaurant scene is constantly changing and something that you need to constantly adapt to. Trends? I can most definitely see the use of organic produce become more prolific and readily available at reasonable prices and it will become a thing that the general public will expect to see in restaurants.

How do you continue to develop as a chef?

I spend a lot of time eating out, seeing what other chefs are doing. I am at the markets weekly to see what new produce is available and finally just simply being creative in the kitchen and trying out new ideas.

What does the future hold for Leigh McDivitt?

I would like to one day have my own restaurant.

This decadent dessert consistently rates on hotel menus. And, here’s why…

Chocolate. Yes, that sweet, dark brown candy. Even just the thought of it can get the mouth salivating…

Despite the health-obsessed times we live in, customers will still find it the one item that’s hard to resist on the dessert menu, whatever form it comes in – ice cream, cake or some other wicked dessert! It’s the ultimate indulgence… and it’s an option that chefs should never overlook.

It doesn’t matter where guests are enjoying their meals – from family-orientated restaurants to fine dining – many won’t feel sated unless they round things off with chocolate.
And, it’s good news for operators, as desserts are based on lower-cost staples like sugar, flour, eggs, butter and cream, meaning better profit margins compared to appetisers and entrees.

Joe Cavallo, the head chef of Aperitivo restaurant in Sydney’s Leichhardt, says having chocolate on the menu is always a winner. “It is undoubtedly always a popular and often safe choice for customers to make – especially when it comes to desserts!”

BISTRO spoke about all things chocolate with those in the know – the chefs!

Why chocolate = success

If chocolate went to school, it’d be the cheerleader, because it wins the popularity contest – again and again!

Just ask Paul Hewitt, the head chef of P. J. Gallagher’s Irish pub restaurant in Sydney’s Parramatta. “I think 90 per cent of our customers would buy a chocolate dessert because, hey, who doesn’t like chocolate? Chocolate desserts always sell very well.” (P. J. Gallagher’s was awarded Best City Restaurant in NSW’s 2009 Australian Hotels Association Awards For Excellence.)

For Iain Todd from Piccalilly in Hobart’s Battery Point, chocolate has many virtues. “It adds colour, richness, texture – both hard and soft – shape and interest to a dish. It’s a very versatile ingredient.” (Piccalilly was voted Best Overall Restaurant of 2008/2009 in the Tasmanian Hospitality Association Awards for Excellence.)

As for Todd’s fave chocolaty dish, he enthuses: “Those where the chocolate has been lightened in texture, so it melts away in the mouth.” Mmmmm!

Watching the bottom line

Chocolate is – and will always be – a hit with diners, according to Leigh McDivitt, the head chef of 3Weeds Hotel’s restaurant in Sydney’s Rozelle. (The restaurant has two chef’s hats from the Good Food Guide and was awarded Best Restaurant in a Pub by the Australian Restaurant and Catering Association in 2009.)

Still, McDivitt says the good-quality variety can be expensive. “You must, of course, balance the costs of your ingredients, so that you can make money. I couldn’t sustain having a dish on my menu that didn’t make money.”
At the same time, McDivitt says the high, perceived value of chocolate makes it a perfect ingredient for producing a high rate of return… because it’s still considered a luxury!

Todd from Piccalilly echoes this sentiment: “The better the quality of the chocolate, the more intense the flavour, so you can afford to use less in your recipes… Chocolate is a good seller, so you know you will move plenty of units.”

Todd has more tips too: “Buy chocolate in bulk and never waste it. Chocolate, as long as it remains uncontaminated, can be used again.”
Hewitt from P. J. Gallagher’s reckons a careful balancing act is required when working with chocolate. “Just like any dish, we weigh up the cost of all the ingredients and find the best price that not only is profitable, but is also value for money for our customers.”

As you can see, all chefs agree that choccy desserts will always sell… the trick is finding the right balance between the cost of produce and labour, combined with a chef’s own knowledge, experience and skills to make a dish really ‘sing’!

Work it

Understanding chocolate’s properties and its behaviour is a “must”, according to McDivitt of 3Weeds. “You need to know what you are doing. Chocolate can be very tricky and takes skill and patience to achieve good results.” Plus, he adds: “Using quality chocolate and having the right equipment does make the difference.”
Hewitt from P. J. Gallagher’s has a few tips of his own: “Work quite quickly as chocolate tends to go hard and lumpy if left out too long; never add cold ingredients to warm chocolate; don’t melt chocolate over direct heat or it burns; and make sure all bowls and utensils are clean and dry before touching chocolate with them.”
Todd from Piccalilly chimes in with some ideas of his own: “Do your research. Ask for samples and taste the chocolate to decide which one suits you best for both price and intensity. Think about cocoa percentage and how that will affect bitterness or sweetness of the finished dish.”

Lastly, he says: “Don’t be afraid of it – it is easy [to use] with some understanding and practice!”

Getting creative

The use of chocolate in dessert dishes can allow chefs to get really imaginative, according to Todd from Piccalilly. “Think outside the box and be creative – think about incorporating chocolate into other areas of the menu,” Todd enthuses.

A recent dessert item on Piccalilly’s menu paired some particularly unusual flavours together – dark chocolate ice cream with pear and parmesan salad and mint jelly. Another recent addition has been soft-centered chocolate and violet mousse, with crystallised blossoms.

BISTRO asked Todd about the inspiration behind such dishes – particularly the ice cream! “Chocolate, pears and mint is a classic combination. The parmesan was added because it works so well with the pear. It adds salt to the dish, which is important, and gives it a more ‘adult’ feel. Piccalilly’s diners eat a large number of courses over a long period of time [so] it is important not to overload them with sugar.”
Cavallo from Aperitivo also errs on the adventurous side when it comes to choccy – particularly his dish dubbed ‘braised lamb, wrapped in filo pastry, with chocolate orange sauce’. Cavallo admits: “This is a challenging idea for some people at first, but is still very popular as it is such an unusual concept!” Other good sellers for the eatery include its chocolate truffles and Italian doughnuts with chocolate Nutella dipping sauce.

For McDivitt from 3Weeds, it’s all about combining different textures. A favourite? “Textures of chocolate with mandarin cigar and hazelnut praline.” Another recent addition has been its chocolate and beetroot marquise, with buttermilk sorbet and tequila jelly. Divine!
While McDivitt enjoys unleashing his creativity with such desserts, his feet also remain firmly planted on the ground. “We have found that we can be adventurous, but must keep it real. I like to take a classic dessert and add on top of that my own take. And then, of course, price will always be the defining point.”

Up-selling
When it comes to running a profitable kitchen, selling desserts is an integral component, according to Todd from Piccalilly. And, waiting staff should be well-informed, so as to entice customers.

“Educate your staff by getting them to taste the desserts,” Todd advises. “For the cost of one or two portions, the people, who can influence your guests’ decisions, can describe how lovely all the desserts are.”

As well, ensure a broad market is catered for on the dessert menu, according to Todd. “If only one person on the table feels like a dessert, they are likely to say no, so they’re not the only one eating. But, if there are more varied options on the menu to suit a range of tastes, you’re on a winner!”

Hewitt from P. J. Gallagher’s also has some wise words for selling desserts: “Giving a good and proper description on the menu always helps, and taking into account customer feedback of what desserts they like to eat.”

Special dates

Tapping into special events, which lend themselves to a chocolaty theme, can also help lure customers. For example, last Easter, the Sir Stamford at Sydney’s Circular Quay offered a chocolate indulgence High Tea.

This included chocolate scones with strawberry jam and double cream, a handmade praline chocolate Easter egg, velvet chocolate cupcakes, chilli chocolate creme brulee, with pistachio biscotti, and a chocolate fondue fountain with strawberries, Belgium waffles, handmade honeycomb and poached baby cherry apples for dipping. There was also an Easter High Tea buffet, which included chocolate shots, eclairs, tarts, and chocolate Pavlova. Gorgeous!

Valentine’s Day and Christmas are also other dates, where an extra-special choccy menu or treat can help attract patrons.

Chocolate? You’ll find it as irresistible as a menu add-on as your patrons will!

The Welcome Hotel has  been associated with serving up the best pub fare for some time. In the recently released Sydney Morning Herald Good Pub Food Guide it was only one of two hotels to receive the coveted three schooners. BISTRO interviews head chef Simon Mackay to find out what it takes to bring fine dining to a pub in Rozelle.

Can you give us some background about your career so far?

I have spent the last four years working in the UK, France and at leading Sydney Restaurants including The Burlington, The Tilbury and Macleay Street Bistro. From 2006-2008 I worked at Notting Hill Brasserie in London but my heart was in France.  I worked as junior sous chef in a Modern French restaurant on the Riviera and then worked as private chef on a super yacht in Monaco for two years before returning to Australia.

Please describe the menu for us at both the restaurant and the bar?

We describe the menus as European Gastro-Pub, however we have brought back the humble rissole on the bar menu and I’m working on a fantastic fish burger. The bar menu is all about comfort food and generosity.

The restaurant menu showcases modern classics and seasonality, making this much more flexible to work with on a daily basis.

There is an Irish influence through the menu. Why?

The Welcome has always had a strong expat Irish clientele and to some extent that has influenced some of the dishes and trends; I think the Irish influence comes through more so in our overall atmosphere of the hotel and this comes through in some of the dishes. So really, the food style is more European now with the heartiness of some dishes being somewhat of a reflection back to Ireland. I must say we do great things with potatoes.

Do you use the one kitchen? Do you have separate people working the bar menu as opposed to the restaurant? Does this create any staff issues?

We operate out of the one kitchen with a separate prep area and things can get pretty hairy on the big nights due to the small size of the kitchen. The restaurant and bar menu are serviced by the same team so  when I’m creating both menus I bear this in mind. Almost 80% of the bar menu comes from the entrée section and during that ‘hour of power’ when all the dockets seem to come at once we all jump in  and multi task as both menus are as significant as each other. Our only issue is oven space – I’d love a bigger kitchen!

In regards to the restaurant – can you describe your patrons – are they locals? Do you have people travelling from other places?

Our Sunday – Wednesday customers are mainly locals, the rest of the week are people venturing from other suburbs even from the east. Lunchtime trade is mainly business people. We have a very good repeat clientele throughout the hotel and it is something we work very hard at from the floor staff all the way through to the kitchen.

The Welcome Hotel is renowned for great food. How important is this in a business sense to the hotel as a whole? Are the restaurants ‘drivers’ for the rest of the hotel?

The kitchen is the engine room and has always been a focus of the hotel. I work closely with the owner and managers on all aspects of the operation, the food is definitely the driving force, although I might be a bit biased.

How often does the menu change? How do you come up with new menu items?

When the seasons change the menus follow, once I know the quality of the produce I can get. You don’t want to start too early into a new season, which we are most likely to see this winter with the impact of the Qld floods on produce. My style adapts to the season, in autumn I like doing a lot of braising and I’m currently working on a short rib wellington with bone marrow, confit shallots and Jerusalem artichoke puree. I do a lot studying with the style of food I want to work with and I spend a lot of time at the markets to make weekly changes. I really enjoy testing new dishes weekly based on what I find at the markets.

Of course going out to eat at other restaurants is an absolute favourite pastime.

Where do you source produce from – please highlight meats and vegetables and herbs in particular?

We use a range of beef products from Wagyu for intercostals and brisket but most of it’s Riverine beef from South Australia & we only use Berkshire pork from Byron Bay. In the winter months you will see New Zealand turbot appear back on the menu. It’s such a lovely strong flavoured delicate fish that is so under used in restaurants in this country.

I work closely with our suppliers. Joto and Verdi send out excellent newsletter updates and can be very helpful in getting directions of foods, pricing and availability. I talk a lot too with other chefs, and often have a quick team catch-up at the Fish markets or a Growers market. I have been amazed since coming back from Europe just how good our produce is in Australia – so often less is more.

Pub restaurants as higher-end dining destinations are really taking off in Sydney. Why are they becoming so popular?

Australia has a strong pub culture and in recent years, especially with the explosion of food shows, magazines etc.  Going to a pub restaurant is more approachable than fine-dining but with the same emphasis on quality in flavour and service. We try to aim to be the place you can come to a few times a week, rather than the place you would just go to for special occasions, which I think is something that fine-dining restaurants would have to struggle with.

What is your take on Sydney’s restaurant scene at the moment? What trends do you see over the next few years?

There are so many fantastic diverse eating options around Sydney. I can’t believe how many new restaurants open monthly, I think chefs are sticking to the basics in their own manner. We have headed away from over-complicated dishes that they don’t understand and are heading towards more nose to tail eating with simple garnishes. Sustainability eating is a growing trend and the awareness of lowering food miles, regional cuisine is becoming more popular than the eclectic mix that we have seen in the past.

Where do you see yourself in five years time/ ten years time?

Never mind five years, I will be 80 and still doing the same food I’m doing today.  I would love to head back to Europe one day with the freshness of what we do out here and the techniques I have developed.

Frying fare from the sea requires the right kind of oil and cooking technique.

The mouth waters just thinking about it… Seafood – fresh out of the deep fryer. Intensely hot, crisp and abundant with flavour. Mmmm…

Just think of savouring the taste of the fragile, crunchy crust against the moist interior… Yum! No other cooking method around creates such a satisfying and distinct contrast amid mouthfuls than this type of dish.

Particularly ideal for deep-frying are lean, white-fleshed fillets, shrimp squid and baby octopus. Delicious!

So, how to prepare seafood for frying? First off, you’ll need to coat the seafood with something that produces a crust-like flour, such as bread crumbs, a light flour or water batter.

The difference? Flour results in a subtle crust, which is barely noticeable – hence, you will taste more of the fish. Breadcrumbs and batter provide a more obvious, crunchy outer coating. And, tempura batter makes the crunchiest coating of all.

Tempura’s entirely different from the other flour-based, deep-fry batters. While the others are mixed until perfectly smooth and then given a rest to allow the gluten to relax before frying, tempura batter is mixed together at the very last minute. This means the ingredients are just barely blended together – therefore, containing lumps. It’s also done so quickly that the gluten in the flour is never activated. The taste itself is very distinct!

Some species or flesh types of seafood are more suited to a particular cooking method than others. Generally, species that have high moisture or oil levels match dry-heat cooking methods and microwaving. Species that are low in moisture or oil, better complement moist, heating methods, such as frying.

Deep-frying suits most types of finfish, sealing the delicate flavour and moistness of the flesh in a coating of crumbs or batter. Plus, it’s a quick method and convenient, when whipping up large quantities. Specially-processed seafood can also be deep-fried from frozen.

Seafood most commonly used for deep-frying include white-fleshed finfish, very small whole finfish, plate-sized whole finfish, and most cuts of finfish – especially fillets or pieces. As well, scallops and squid are particularly popular crumbed and deep-fried.

The good oil

So, what’s the best oil to use when frying seafood? Well, vegetable oils are recommended. These are made from a variety of plant products, such as nuts, seed and grains – each with their own distinctive colour, flavour and cooking properties.

They may come from a single plant source or a blend of numerous varieties. A blended vegetable oil typically contains soybean oil, canola oil and or sunflower oil.  Oils are described as being either polyunsaturated or monounsaturated and are liquid at room temperature.  A fat described as being saturated is usually solid at room temperature.

‘Saturated’ fat molecules consist of carbon chains with no double bonds, making them very stable to oxidation.  ‘Monounsaturated’ oil molecules have carbon chains with only one double bond.  ‘Polyunsaturated’ oil molecules have carbon chains with multiple double bonds, and are very unstable oils as each double bond is a site which can easily be oxidised.

From a health perspective, monounsaturated (eg canola, olive oil) & polyunsaturated (sunflower and cottonseed) oils are referred to as ‘good fats’ as they help reduce the risk of heart disease and diabetes.

Top tips for deep-frying

Away use good quality oil.

Ensure that the thermostat works correctly – and that you heat the oil slowly to the correct temperature.

The ideal frying temperature for battered and breaded fish, prawns and scampi is 180C.  Potato chips fresh (blenching) 170C, frozen (frying) 185C.

Watch the temperature to make sure the oil doesn’t spray on copper or brass.

Use the correct food-to-oil ratio of 1:6.

Top up your fryer regularly to the load level.

Prepare food correctly, including pieces in uniform sizes and without excess moisture, crumbs and batter on them.

Don’t mix different food types – a big no-no!

Don’t salt food before frying or  over the fryer.

Skim the fryer oil’s surface regularly – and filter it daily. Plus, keep the oil covered after use. Reduce the heat to between 90C and 120C when you’re not using it.

Keep the fryer and equipment clean, thoroughly washing away the detergent and drying it.

Recognise that darkened, foaming, smoking or smelling oil indicates the end of its life – and time for new oil!

Source: Peerless Foods.

Chewing the fat on trans fats

Trans fats is the predominant fat found in dairy and meat products – it raises the LDL (bad) cholesterol levels and lowers the HDL (good) cholesterol levels.

Trans fatty acids are also found in manufactured food items – helping to increase their shelf life – such as, some varieties of fried foods, pies, biscuits and confectionary. As well, trans fats are in certain cooking oils, which have undergone an industrial, super-heating process, strengthening the time they can be used for frying.

There is a global trend to ban trans fats being industrially-produced. Because, of course, trans fats also occur naturally in foods, such as meat and dairy. So, it is not possible to ban the fats entirely from the landscape. Most health experts believe that it’s more sensible to aim to restrict or minimise these fats in our diet. Hence, a ban instead on the use of industrial-produced trans fatty acids is a more realistic goal.

Bans or restrictions are already in place overseas. In the US, for example, a ban on trans fats has been placed on restaurants in the Big Apple. Boston and Chicago are considering similar moves, while California Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger had it signed into law. In a media release, Schwarzenegger declared the US state of California “free of trans fatty acids”.

The European Union is also on the move with similar plans. In November, new laws were introduced in the UK, requiring Suffolk eateries to disclose the caloric content of and remove artificial trans fat. As early as 2004, Denmark also banned trans fats – in reality, a limit of two per cent imposed on imported foods and Denmark-manufactured fare.

Here in Australia, there is a trend to do likewise, with state politicians and local councils leading the charge. Sydney’s Kogarah Council has moved to ban the use of synthetic trans fatty acids (trans fats) in new food outlets.

Greens MP John Kaye is one such state politician, who believes it is now time to act. Kaye says: “Trans fatty acids are unnecessary – they carry no additional nutritional value and they could easily be eradicated. The cost of eradication is relatively low. The benefit is in saving lives.”

And, in November, the NSW government announced changes to menu labelling in fast-food chains, like McDonald’s, KFC and Pizza Hut, forcing them to display prominent information about the content of kilojoules, saturated fats, trans fats and salt.

The new food labelling law, introduced into Parliament by the Keneally government, gives NSW fast-food outlets a year, as of February, to comply, before heavy fines kick in for breaches. Labelling aside, when it comes to an actual ban, however, imposing one appears to be problematic to enforce. Anne-Marie Mackintosh, the Nutrient Standard and Regulatory Affairs Manager of The National Heart Foundation, has her concerns. “The problem with banning or restricting trans fats is an auditing problem – to prove trans fat content food needs to be analysed – you just can’t tell from taste and smell.”

Mackintosh continues: “Like all laboratory procedures, it is a costly process. So, widespread enforcement is not only costly, but is complicated in a whole range of logistical ways.”

Still, in many overseas countries, it is mandatory to declare trans fats. Declarations have been in place in the US, Canada and Korea for some time.

Companies like General Mills in the US, which markets brands like Betty Crocker and Cheerios, as well as Latina pasta in Oz, have even reformulated products to improve their health profiles, including reducing trans fats.

Currently, in Australia, it is not mandatory to declare trans fats across the board. While organisations like The National Heart Foundation are lobbying the government to ‘get with the programme’, it seems to be slow-going.

In November, the Food Standards Australia New Zealand (FSANZ) was criticised for being “too heavily influenced by the industry” following its annual report’s release. This revealed no regulatory action would be taken on consumer issues raised in the past year – including that of trans fat labelling across the board.

Following the report, Choice Senior Food Policy Officer Clare Hughes told the Sunday Telegraph: “We don’t rate them highly as a consumer protection agency.” FSANZ claimed to prefer non-regulatory, industry measures and said Aussie intake of trans fats was “quite low.”

The National Heart Foundation though has been a strong advocate in the trans fat arena and its successful Tick for Health programme requires participating manufacturers to declare the fats in packaging.

Oils, such as Formula 40 Hi Oleic, Tuscan Blend, Sunoil and Crisco, have all earned The National Heart Foundation’s tick of approval. A tick-approved food means it is a healthier choice when compared to similar foods. The tick must be earned by proving it is a genuinely healthier choice. Regular auditing ensures the strict tick standards are being maintained.

However, the Food Standards Code of Australia has “triggers” that go in part to having a transparent declaration system. Any claims of nutrition content on packaging must also declare trans fat content.

According to Mackintosh from The National Heart Foundation, while hysteria and publicity surrounding the trans fat debate is a good thing in raising awareness, it also takes away from the spotlight of health issues relating to consumption of other unhealthy oils.

“It is great that we have a higher level of awareness of the dangers of trans fats,” Mackintosh says. “And, it seems, governments around the world are shifting to a positive position in the eradication of manufactured trans fats. [But] let’s not forget the health issues relating to consumption of other unhealthy oils, such as saturated fats in this country.” Food for thought.

Colin was also part of the team to open Gordon Ramsey’s Box Wood Café in London.

He moved to Australia and worked at Banc and Est at Establishment. Since 2004 he has been the Head Chef at the Four in Hand in Paddington.

The Four in Hand has been a consistent performer in the Sydney Morning Herald’s Good Food Guide. The restaurant  improved on it’s One Hat credentials to receive Two Hats and a Wine goblet  in the most recent SMH Awards.

BISTRO speaks to the man behind the success, Colin Fassnidge.

Why did you choose a traditional pub for your restaurant?

I had seen what Matt Kemp did in his first Balzac Restaurant in Randwick, which showed us you don’t need a million dollars to get your philosophy across.

What challenges are specific to operating a hatted restaurant from a pub and in particular from the Four in Hand.

The only challenge is that we are too small and the pub only adds to the ambience next door which makes it quirky rather than trendy, which is the norm.

How do you manage in such a small kitchen?

Menu planning, a great team, spaced bookings and we don’t cook everything to order as a lot of our food is sous vied and prepped in advanced.  Also the kitchen works at a very fast pace.

Some have described your restaurant  as ‘French Bistro in style with a spark’. Would you agree?

I disagree. Its seasonal, nose to tail with elements of my travels.

Do you think too many restaurants in Sydney are fixated on chasing the latest trends?

Yes and that’s why we have done so well because we have consistently, followed our own path and we are now reaping the fruit which has come to fruition.

Sydney summers are long and (can be) hot. How do you adjust your  menu to reflect the summer season?

Seasonal, which is basic common sense and economically sound.

You are a big fan of Fergus Henderson of London’s St John Restaurant. What are the things he does that inspire you?

Basically, he followed his own path when everyone else was trendy. He stuck to his own beliefs and now is considered one of the best chefs.

You do a lot of pork. Can you outline your reasons?

Its such a versatile animal. We do a lot of roasting, braising and pig’s ears. We roast a whole animal, as a show stopper. It’s a good sized beast, where we can use the whole animal on our menu.

Do you employ apprentices? What are the most important lessons for them?

Yes. Tasting… We have chefs who come in, who have never tasted what they have cooked before. We teach them to taste at every stage and to ask why.

From where you currently are, how do you continue to grow as a chef?

We are looking at expansion. We have a winning formula and a winning team which we can translate to another venue as well as the Four In Hand and the next project will be more interactive with chefs and customers.

Hatted restaurants in traditional pubs – do you think we will see more of them?

Yes, because it’s a blank canvas. It lets the food shine, not the fit out.

The restaurant has managed to excel in not just amazing food but also wine, service and  atmosphere. Given the fact your background is kitchen-based – how does a chef pull off the ‘Quadrella’?

I’m in my kitchen every day (cooking, not in an office) we have such a small team, it is close with a lot of communication and we all have the same goal from kitchen-apprentice to rest manager.

What does the future hold for you?

Expansion with keeping an emphasis on what we do well and not getting too big and forgetting who the customer is.

But while claiming to be “kid-friendly” is easy, being known locally as a true family destination requires true investment and commitment. Still, the financial return can be well worth it – especially in the form of patronage at slower times, such as mid-week and in the mornings, as well as via group bookings and an increase in bistro business.

So, how to realign a business? Well, offering family-friendly facilities and scrummy children’s menus are good ways to go.

The Ettamogah Hotel in NSW’s Kellyville Ridge is one example of such a venue, particularly menu-wise. Its range of children’s meals tantalise the taste buds, while still being a little outside the norm.

Dubbed ‘Tin Lids’, the kids’ menu offers humorously-named dishes like Hold My Handles (two lamb cutlets – with their own ‘handles’), Stick ‘Em Up (two kebabs, filled with cubed chicken breast and cherry tomatoes), and Slippery Salmon – Can You Catch It? (grilled salmon with rice).

Kids also have an option to ‘supersize’ their dishes with inventive sides, like sweet potato wedges, potato mash and seasonal veggies. They also get to eat free with every purchase of an adult main meal, Monday to Friday.

Facilities-wise, the hotel also offers a children’s play centre and a weekly jumping castle, face painter and pony rides, helping to keep them entertained beyond meal-time.

Another venue that also offer dishes for the kids – though prefers to keep things fuss-free and stick to kids’ faves – is the Ocean Beach Hotel in NSW’s Shellharbour. Its kids’ menu includes popular dishes like hamburgers, fish and chips, chicken nuggets and ice cream. And, best of all, children eat free with every purchase of an adult’s main meal.

When it comes to kid-friendly facilities, the Everton Park Hotel in south-east Queensland seems to have it all. Its features include a children’s play centre with its own carousel, a playground featuring swings and slides, an air-conditioned DVD room, and a PlayStation room.

Parents can rest assured as well. The children’s play centre is shown on closed-circuit TV inside the venue, so they can keep an eye on the kids at all times. Plus, safety is paramount with all children’s play equipment safety-certified by engineers, with safety checks made at the beginning, end and during all sessions.

Brad Hines, the business development manager at Spirit Hotels, which runs the Everton Park Hotel, says the family-friendly factor is a real part of its commercial success. “The front bar and gaming room are important to the business, but positioning ourselves as a family destination has allowed us to expand our market base. The EPH is a gathering place for mothers to meet up for coffee during the week. We also get a lot of party bookings and, come weekends, the venue is packed with kids and parents.”

The hotel’s kid-friendly features are also supported with other activities on weekends and in the holidays, such as face-painting, roving clowns, jumping castles and even Zumba dancing.

Saturday afternoons are the busiest period for the hotel, with 50 to 100 kids in the play areas at any given time, according to Brad. “Parents want their kids entertained, but there is a real emphasis on health and exercise [too]. We did some ‘focus groups’ with mothers and found that it is important to offer an entertainment package that promotes health and exercise, along with the fun aspect. A lot of our activities are outdoors, so that’s another bonus.”

Once again, the bistro is also an integral part of creating an ideal family destination. The hotel’s menu is strong on kids’ healthy options, with the five food groups well-covered. If a child has special dietary needs, all efforts are made to accommodate. And, kids’ meals are wallet-friendly too, priced around the $5 mark.

Another great example of a venue with cool facilities for kids is the former Gladesville Hotel in Sydney, now known as the Sawdust Hotel. It has a large playground area, including a tunnel slide. There are also arcade games like two-car racing, plus it’s about to introduce XBox and Wii games too. The hotel can also cater for events such as birthday parties and christenings.

John La Forest, Licensee, enthuses: “The parents can have a drink on the balcony, which overlooks the play area, and keep an eye on the kids in a very safe playground environment.”

Backing it up is a fab bistro menu for the kids – and their parents. There’s a large choice of kids’ meals priced under $5 (chicken nuggets being the most popular). And, with every kids’ meal, each child receives a free soft drink and ice cream. Many of the adult meals are also priced under $10 and there are also weekly and daily specials.

When it comes to kid-friendly facilities, John says there is an ‘age ceiling’ on them. “If you are considering a kids’ play area, you should target the under-10s. Older kids will tend to get bored with these type of facilities very quickly [while] the younger ones can have hours of entertainment.”

Indeed. With the right children’s facilities, tantalising kids’ menus and options to help parents relax, being family-friendly can be a boon for business.

BISTRO caught up with a very busy Head Chef.

Where were you working previously to Altitude Restaurant. Please explain your background and work history?

I started my career in Winnipeg, Canada where I was born, then moved to London for a short stay. I migrated to Australia in 1999 where I worked at Banc for three years then moved to Restaurant Balzac for four years.

How did you come to work as Head Chef Altitude – please explain the journey?

After four years as Head Chef at Restaurant Balzac, I decided that it was time to run my own kitchen. Many Chefs around the world were making moves to hotels and I felt the stigma in dining in a ‘hotel’ restaurant was making a positive change. I was driven by the challenge to bring a private restaurant experience to a hotel restaurant diner.

How long have you been at Altitude?

Three and a half years.

What ( if any) changes did you implement at the restaurant?

I think the first change I made was to bring a strong and focused goal to the whole team. On the menu, the first change was to implement a focus on great suppliers and bringing small boutique growers to Altitude to showcase them in a fresh and interesting way. Another change we made was to create a cheese menu and offer over 16 cheeses to every diner.

Define the style of cuisine at Altitude?

Modern Australia with strong European ties and a focus on seasonality cooking.

What customers do you cater for? Being a five star hotel with international travellers but at the same time being an iconic dining restaurant to Sydney – how do you appeal to both markets?

We cater for both International guests AND Sydney residents. Our menu displays the best of Australian produce with modern Australian cuisine. I feel that for international guests, we offer a dining experience unique to Australia, and the variety to appeal to different nationalities.

The prices are very reasonable for a dining destination like Altitude. Was this a deliberate decision when compiling the menu?

Yes, absolutely.  One of the stigma’s about dining in some hotels is that they are overpriced and rely on guests of the hotel.  Our customer focus is evenly balanced between Sydney residents and guests, therefore we like everyone to leave knowing they received good value for money.

You have a large vegetarian component to the menu. Why so large? How popular is it?

A vegetarian menu is important to have to give everyone a choice. Altitude also believes that everyone should have variety in what they choose to order. The vegetarian menu is very popular.

If you opened your own restaurant can you describe it to us?

Sixty seats. Small. Unobtrusive. Somewhere you’d want to dine at every day of the week.  Simple, warm and inviting food.

How do you keep your skills up? Do you eat out? Travel? Study?

I am a constant reader of anything to do with cooking. I dine at every chance I get and travelling is always dictated by the dining experience I want from a particular country.

Name the chefs you admire  and why?

Before January, I would have given you a list of Chefs and what they’d accomplished. The beginning of this year, I was lucky enough to work with Michel Roux in my kitchen. The way he carried himself and the pure love he has for this industry has earned my respect and admiration.

What are the unique challenges that face a head chef at a large five star hotel?

My passion and desire is to be a part of the kitchen and hang out with my team,  however to get certain things accomplished in the hotel, I am often pulled out of that environment.