Doubling up to beat competitors

With convenience stores potentially muscling in on restaurant territory, savvy eateries are connecting with a shop to stay ahead.

Convenience stores – they’re everywhere, filled with pricey everyday essentials and junk food but not much charm. Their key feature is their … convenience! But there’s a growing shift. Savvy operators have clicked that plenty of consumers will pay for QUALITY along with their convenience. Hence qourmet products, a deli range, fresh produce and deluxe meals-to-go are increasingly on offer. With such a selection just as grabbable as milk and bread on the way home from work, this potentially takes business from restaurants/cafes/bistros.

Industry blogger and chef Matthew J. Goudge fears this development is a real threat to the restaurant industry. With the trend working well for convenience stores he is convinced it’s set to increase.

One way for restaurants to reclaim territory is by connecting to a shop, deli or providore. Offering consumers restaurant-quality meals that are fast and able to be taken home adds in convenience for people who want a decent meal without waiting around or eating out. Also having a selection of products on offer allows these customers to pick up a few extras while they’re there, increasing business further. Let people get their bread and milk at your shop!

Fourth Village Providore (Mosman, NSW) is one such ‘double’ business: the restaurant adjoins a providore, an award-winning marketplace selling fresh produce, antipasto, cheeses, fine foods and take home meals made in-house. It is a beautiful establishment and a foodie’s paradise.

Owner Peter Quattroville has found having the two parts to be a successful business model: “The cross-over of the two is a perfect marriage.”

With a roughly fifty-fifty breakdown of trade between the two areas, Quattroville explains that “the majority of customers use both [sections]. Maybe not on the same day, but definitely at some stage.”

“It is also a unique experience for the customer, especially those who travel a distance. They come just for a coffee or a meal and then they can shop in the store,” he says. “It’s good for locals too. People meet and shop together, they come to catch up. There’s a real sense of community.”

Each business also benefits behind the scenes. The store produce can be used in the kitchen, and the two areas can share management and staff.

The downside is the increased complexity, Quattroville says.

“Obviously it is a lot to manage with a great number of variables. It’s not an easy thing to do … it’s more difficult to manage [than either single business].”

Unlike Goudge, Quattroville is not concerned about the encroachment of convenience stores: “You can’t compare the quality of takeaway convenience store meals to what’s served in our restaurant. Our market is well informed and appreciates a good meal, so they can tell the difference,” he says.

Of course it’s not in every restaurant owner’s budget, skillset or logistical situation to open a fully fledged product shop next door.

Quattroville stresses that a double business, while advantageous, requires expertise in both areas: “The important thing is it [the shop] can’t be seen to be an add on – it needs to be integrated.”

“It’s a concept that’s a lot of hard work with a high number of aspects that need to come together. It’s not for the fainthearted. I have 30 years experience. You really need experience in both areas,” he says.

He doesn’t recommend that an operator in one area just go plonking the other section in. Goudge agrees: he suggests teaming up with a convenience store, thus receiving the benefits without needing to run that side of the business. While negotiation and changes would be needed, the potential is huge.

Goudge also suggests a new concept as a middle ground: restaurants set up a corner in a convenience store. This maintains the convenience factor, but the restaurant section offers customers a more sophisticated way to sit and eat without a long wait.

Or at its simplest, this double concept could be started in any restaurant by stocking a small product range so diners can purchase something extra as they settle their bill. Conversely, as a customer pops in to pick up a bottle of their new favourite olive oil, they smell lunch cooking in the restaurant and decide to stay on – the areas feed each other, a positive for any business.

The Thin Cut

Whether it’s for cheesesteaks or Mongolian barbecue, shaved steak has proven to be a versatile option for generations of meat lovers.

The use of thinly sliced meat has been around for generations, and while us Aussies often tend to opt for a big slab of porterhouse or a giant T-bone on the barbie, many other cultures savour the flavour of this thinly sliced and easily prepared meat.

At the Genghis Khan Mongolian restaurant in Adelaide, the proprietor, Fon Lau, explains that thinly sliced meat came about through necessity in Mongolia originally. Because the weather was so cold, the meat would freeze and the people had no choice but to thinly slice their frozen meat for use in cooking.

Nowadays, he says, the meat is frozen quite deliberately in order to achieve the thinnest slice possible. In terms of beef, Lau says that most often they would utilise cuts such as topside or knuckle – not the most expensive cuts but when sliced so thinly will cook to perfection and remain tender.

Once the meat is frozen it is sliced (or shaved) on a commercial slicer to achieve the desired thickness and cooked to order in the traditional Mongolian restaurant.  Although the restaurant is classified as ‘all you can eat’, he says that all meals are cooked to order with customers choosing their own meat, vegetables and sauces to be cooked by chefs wielding huge chopsticks on a round grill. Even the cooking method has been around for generations – with the round grill said to represent the shields the ancient Mongols heated up and then cooked on with chopsticks similar to those used today.  Another popular use of thinly sliced meat is for the traditional Italian dish, carpaccio. A raw beef dish with its origins in the famous Harry’s Bar in Venice, and apparently named after the Venetian painter Vittore Carpaccio, it still remains a popular menu item in both traditional and contemporary Italian restaurants.

Traditionally, the dish is kept simple, comprising raw beef served very thinly sliced, drizzled with olive oil, a little lemon juice and frequently topped with capers. Some chefs will also add grated parmesan cheese to the dish.

According to Michelle Elia, Chef at Cicciolina Restaurant in St Kilda, beef carpaccio remains a really popular dish to have on their menu. She states that they also deviate from tradition by serving other dishes such as tuna carpaccio which are also popular.

In this sense the term ‘carpaccio’ frequently refers to the method of slicing and serving different forms of meat and seafood. But it is the traditional beef carpaccio that has stood the test of time.

When asked why she thinks it has remained a popular dish for so many years, Elia enthuses: “Because it’s light, and it’s usually a really good, high quality grade of meat that you would slice up thinly and serve raw. It’s tasty, just a lighter sort of meal option. That’s why I love it anyway, if you don’t want to have a massive meal it’s a good, light and tasty choice.”

Given that the meat is served raw in carpaccio, Elia stresses the importance of using top quality meat, stating that in her restaurant they would most often opt to use the eye fillet.

With carpaccio, the meat is not necessarily referred to as being ‘shaved’ and is not routinely sliced using a commercial slicer. It is however often frozen (or partially frozen) to make the thin slicing easier and more accurate.

Elia states that she has utilised both options for slicing in the past – commercial slicer and slicing by hand, and generally would freeze the meat first if they wanted wafer thin slices for their dish. She explains that thinner slices are usually required for a seafood carpaccio, and slightly thicker for the beef dish. When preparing carpaccio in her restaurant, Elia states that she tends to stick to the traditional serving of the dish. “We always try to use simple, fresh ingredients, you don’t want to overcrowd the dish, it’s important you are able to taste the quality beef.”

Another long-standing use of ‘shaved beef’ is the ubiquitous ‘Philly cheesesteak’. Invented in South Philadelphia in the 1930s, those native to Philadelphia are passionate about the dish.

According to Wikipedia, the meat traditionally used is thinly sliced rib eye or top round. Along with the thinly shaved and fried meat a white roll is stuffed with fried onions and cheese such as provolone. These days cheesesteaks are available at numerous specialty fast food restaurants throughout Philadelphia and the grease-filled buns are best sellers.

In Quebec, the use of very thinly sliced, or shaved, beef is hugely popular in a dish known as ‘Chinese Fondue’ or ‘Fondue Chiniose’. The fondue uses very thinly sliced beef tenderloin or sirloin, served on a platter, alongside a large pot of flavoursome beef broth filled with herbs, spices and vegetables.

The slices of meat are simply speared and immersed in the boiling broth to cook for a few seconds, then served with a variety of dips and sauces.

According to a French Canadian friend, the broth ingredients vary depending on the cook, and are often a closely guarded family recipe. The sharing of fondue is a common and relaxing way of spending time with friends and family.

According to Australian butchers, customers here would not commonly ask for ‘shaved steak’. We tend to use what’s more commonly referred to as ‘minute steak’ or ‘sandwich steak’ for preparing menu items like steak sandwiches. And that’s a different thing altogether.

Minute steak generally refers to a piece of meat that has been tenderised and will cook very quickly (hence the term minute steak) on a grill or barbecue. It is most often used in dishes like steak sandwiches or when consumers want a piece of meat that will cook quickly without any fuss. According to www.cuisine.com “minute steaks are usually sirloin, cut thinly to cook very quickly.”

So, it is clearly seen that the use of delicate, thinly sliced meat is popular in a variety of dishes. A variety of cuts can be used depending on the dish – and one thing is certain, they are all tasty and hugely popular dishes in various cultures.

But, I have to admit, despite repeated attempts and promising it would be ‘off the record’, the secret recipe for the Chinese Fondue broth my friend obtained from his mother has remained just that!

This decadent dessert consistently rates on hotel menus. And, here’s why…

Chocolate. Yes, that sweet, dark brown candy. Even just the thought of it can get the mouth salivating…

Despite the health-obsessed times we live in, customers will still find it the one item that’s hard to resist on the dessert menu, whatever form it comes in – ice cream, cake or some other wicked dessert! It’s the ultimate indulgence… and it’s an option that chefs should never overlook.

It doesn’t matter where guests are enjoying their meals – from family-orientated restaurants to fine dining – many won’t feel sated unless they round things off with chocolate.
And, it’s good news for operators, as desserts are based on lower-cost staples like sugar, flour, eggs, butter and cream, meaning better profit margins compared to appetisers and entrees.

Joe Cavallo, the head chef of Aperitivo restaurant in Sydney’s Leichhardt, says having chocolate on the menu is always a winner. “It is undoubtedly always a popular and often safe choice for customers to make – especially when it comes to desserts!”

BISTRO spoke about all things chocolate with those in the know – the chefs!

Why chocolate = success

If chocolate went to school, it’d be the cheerleader, because it wins the popularity contest – again and again!

Just ask Paul Hewitt, the head chef of P. J. Gallagher’s Irish pub restaurant in Sydney’s Parramatta. “I think 90 per cent of our customers would buy a chocolate dessert because, hey, who doesn’t like chocolate? Chocolate desserts always sell very well.” (P. J. Gallagher’s was awarded Best City Restaurant in NSW’s 2009 Australian Hotels Association Awards For Excellence.)

For Iain Todd from Piccalilly in Hobart’s Battery Point, chocolate has many virtues. “It adds colour, richness, texture – both hard and soft – shape and interest to a dish. It’s a very versatile ingredient.” (Piccalilly was voted Best Overall Restaurant of 2008/2009 in the Tasmanian Hospitality Association Awards for Excellence.)

As for Todd’s fave chocolaty dish, he enthuses: “Those where the chocolate has been lightened in texture, so it melts away in the mouth.” Mmmmm!

Watching the bottom line

Chocolate is – and will always be – a hit with diners, according to Leigh McDivitt, the head chef of 3Weeds Hotel’s restaurant in Sydney’s Rozelle. (The restaurant has two chef’s hats from the Good Food Guide and was awarded Best Restaurant in a Pub by the Australian Restaurant and Catering Association in 2009.)

Still, McDivitt says the good-quality variety can be expensive. “You must, of course, balance the costs of your ingredients, so that you can make money. I couldn’t sustain having a dish on my menu that didn’t make money.”
At the same time, McDivitt says the high, perceived value of chocolate makes it a perfect ingredient for producing a high rate of return… because it’s still considered a luxury!

Todd from Piccalilly echoes this sentiment: “The better the quality of the chocolate, the more intense the flavour, so you can afford to use less in your recipes… Chocolate is a good seller, so you know you will move plenty of units.”

Todd has more tips too: “Buy chocolate in bulk and never waste it. Chocolate, as long as it remains uncontaminated, can be used again.”
Hewitt from P. J. Gallagher’s reckons a careful balancing act is required when working with chocolate. “Just like any dish, we weigh up the cost of all the ingredients and find the best price that not only is profitable, but is also value for money for our customers.”

As you can see, all chefs agree that choccy desserts will always sell… the trick is finding the right balance between the cost of produce and labour, combined with a chef’s own knowledge, experience and skills to make a dish really ‘sing’!

Work it

Understanding chocolate’s properties and its behaviour is a “must”, according to McDivitt of 3Weeds. “You need to know what you are doing. Chocolate can be very tricky and takes skill and patience to achieve good results.” Plus, he adds: “Using quality chocolate and having the right equipment does make the difference.”
Hewitt from P. J. Gallagher’s has a few tips of his own: “Work quite quickly as chocolate tends to go hard and lumpy if left out too long; never add cold ingredients to warm chocolate; don’t melt chocolate over direct heat or it burns; and make sure all bowls and utensils are clean and dry before touching chocolate with them.”
Todd from Piccalilly chimes in with some ideas of his own: “Do your research. Ask for samples and taste the chocolate to decide which one suits you best for both price and intensity. Think about cocoa percentage and how that will affect bitterness or sweetness of the finished dish.”

Lastly, he says: “Don’t be afraid of it – it is easy [to use] with some understanding and practice!”

Getting creative

The use of chocolate in dessert dishes can allow chefs to get really imaginative, according to Todd from Piccalilly. “Think outside the box and be creative – think about incorporating chocolate into other areas of the menu,” Todd enthuses.

A recent dessert item on Piccalilly’s menu paired some particularly unusual flavours together – dark chocolate ice cream with pear and parmesan salad and mint jelly. Another recent addition has been soft-centered chocolate and violet mousse, with crystallised blossoms.

BISTRO asked Todd about the inspiration behind such dishes – particularly the ice cream! “Chocolate, pears and mint is a classic combination. The parmesan was added because it works so well with the pear. It adds salt to the dish, which is important, and gives it a more ‘adult’ feel. Piccalilly’s diners eat a large number of courses over a long period of time [so] it is important not to overload them with sugar.”
Cavallo from Aperitivo also errs on the adventurous side when it comes to choccy – particularly his dish dubbed ‘braised lamb, wrapped in filo pastry, with chocolate orange sauce’. Cavallo admits: “This is a challenging idea for some people at first, but is still very popular as it is such an unusual concept!” Other good sellers for the eatery include its chocolate truffles and Italian doughnuts with chocolate Nutella dipping sauce.

For McDivitt from 3Weeds, it’s all about combining different textures. A favourite? “Textures of chocolate with mandarin cigar and hazelnut praline.” Another recent addition has been its chocolate and beetroot marquise, with buttermilk sorbet and tequila jelly. Divine!
While McDivitt enjoys unleashing his creativity with such desserts, his feet also remain firmly planted on the ground. “We have found that we can be adventurous, but must keep it real. I like to take a classic dessert and add on top of that my own take. And then, of course, price will always be the defining point.”

Up-selling
When it comes to running a profitable kitchen, selling desserts is an integral component, according to Todd from Piccalilly. And, waiting staff should be well-informed, so as to entice customers.

“Educate your staff by getting them to taste the desserts,” Todd advises. “For the cost of one or two portions, the people, who can influence your guests’ decisions, can describe how lovely all the desserts are.”

As well, ensure a broad market is catered for on the dessert menu, according to Todd. “If only one person on the table feels like a dessert, they are likely to say no, so they’re not the only one eating. But, if there are more varied options on the menu to suit a range of tastes, you’re on a winner!”

Hewitt from P. J. Gallagher’s also has some wise words for selling desserts: “Giving a good and proper description on the menu always helps, and taking into account customer feedback of what desserts they like to eat.”

Special dates

Tapping into special events, which lend themselves to a chocolaty theme, can also help lure customers. For example, last Easter, the Sir Stamford at Sydney’s Circular Quay offered a chocolate indulgence High Tea.

This included chocolate scones with strawberry jam and double cream, a handmade praline chocolate Easter egg, velvet chocolate cupcakes, chilli chocolate creme brulee, with pistachio biscotti, and a chocolate fondue fountain with strawberries, Belgium waffles, handmade honeycomb and poached baby cherry apples for dipping. There was also an Easter High Tea buffet, which included chocolate shots, eclairs, tarts, and chocolate Pavlova. Gorgeous!

Valentine’s Day and Christmas are also other dates, where an extra-special choccy menu or treat can help attract patrons.

Chocolate? You’ll find it as irresistible as a menu add-on as your patrons will!

Curry-based dishes are a winter staple, adding a sizzling touch to menus in the cooler months.

Though, Kumar Mahadevan, the owner and Head Chef of Abhi’s and Aki’s fine Indian restaurants in Sydney, reckons the spicy fare is also an all-year-round crowd-pleaser. “Curries – if done well – can be great for summer dining too by using seafood and lighter ingredients.”

Curry is a cuisine used in almost every country and can be incorporated into many dishes – and even drinks! And, Aussies have certainly garnered quite the taste for it.

Mahadevan, who has featured on MasterChef twice and is often referred to as the “godfather of Indian cuisine”, says the popularity of curry in Oz has grown incredibly since he arrived in 1985. “The understanding of curries and Indian food has also transformed. People now consider curries not just to be a cheap takeaway food as they once did, but rather a beautiful, diverse cuisine with a delicate balance of flavours.”

All in all, it’s helping to spice things up a lot!

Back in time

Curry has a lengthy history, with even evidence of such dishes in Mesopotamia (modern-day Iraq) in 1700 BC. A form of curry was also eaten in England as early as the 1300s, as it was mentioned in the first book on English cookery back then.

So, where does the term, curry, come from? Well, it’s of English origin, though is based on the Tamil word, kari, meaning ‘black pepper’. The term is used to describe all kinds of Indian dishes, particularly those that are sauce-laden.

Funnily, curry has a different meaning in India itself. In the South-Asian country, it instead refers to a gravy or stew dish, generally containing the Indian spice mix, garam masala, along with the ingredients of ginger, chilli, cumin, coriander and turmeric – and sometimes onion and garlic.

India’s diverse regions have varied curry ingredients and spice mixes. Hence, the dishes are named either after the spice combos (like, rogan josh), the cooking method (korma, biryani and dopiaza), or the main ingredients (such as, saag and aloo gobi).

Britain’s insatiable appetite for curry can be attributed to the British Raj – the colonial rulers in greater South Asia – whose personnel acquired a taste for the spicy foods while stationed there. The Indian cooks, encouraged by their memsahibs (a term of respect then used to describe European, married women), learned to make fare – including curries – that were more suited to the Western palate.

Britain’s enthusiasm for curry got a second helping with the migration of Indians and Pakistanis to the UK from the 1960s onwards.

Curry is a welcome component of the Aussie menu, particularly as pub fare. Whether mild or fiery hot, it’s always guaranteed to be exotic and tasty!

BISTRO spoke to a few chefs about their passion for curry.

Curry the crowd-pleaser

The Exeter Hotel in Adelaide runs regular curry nights – and owner Kevin Gregg says they always go down a treat. “We seat approximately 65 people and generally both curry nights are booked out in advance!”

The Grace Hotel in Sydney – a finalist in the 2009 AHA Awards for Excellence – recently ran a month-long curry special to attract new business and keep the regulars happy. “We have one or two curry dishes on the menu, plus a daily special,” says Colin Yee, the hotel’s Executive Chef. “People love curries. The most popular would be either a Malaysian or Indian-based dish.”

Taking the curry theme further is Matso’s Restaurant at Matso’s Broome Brewery in WA’s Broome. It has a Curry Hut, open from Friday to Tuesday, run by Indian chef Depesh Pallai, who has worked for the Oberoi Group of hotels and resorts.

Chris Lane, Matso’s general manager, enthuses: “Depesh cooks three different curries each night – each of which is served with a different type of rice preparation, yoghurt salad, mixed pickle and pappadum.” Yum!

The meaty stuff

The beauty of curry is that non-prime cuts of meat and poultry can be used and come out wonderfully tasty and tender. (Historically, the British Raj cooks whipped up grand meals, consisting of game and poultry, which was of poor quality and quite tough – hence, they quickly learned to improvise!)

Aussie meat quality is much better than the days of the Raj, of course, though non-prime cuts still star in curries. The Grace Hotel’s Yee enthuses: “We use cuts [like] beef topside, lamb shoulder, chicken thigh or whole pieces, or a selection of mixed seafood. This enables us to have a variety on a daily basis – the choice is endless!”

As for Pallai from Matso’s? “Generally, we use most of the thigh part for making our curries, as we know that the thigh is juicier and holds its shape while cooking. [Plus] we use fish like Spanish mackerel and swordfish for our cooking, because of their oily texture.”

For Gregg from the Exeter Hotel, the versatility of curry means it’s easier to keep everyone happy. “There are always five different curries on both nights. We always have two meat curries – lamb, beef, pork or venison – plus a chicken, seafood and vegetarian.”

Organisation, organisation, organisation!

All the chefs agree it’s important to be organised well in advance for curry preparations. Over at the Grace Hotel, the meat is marinated overnight, using market products. The herbs and spices are also mixed in-house to produce the curry base.

Yee says: “The most labour-heavy component would be making the curry base, with the particular spices and herbs. But pre-mixing and cooking the dry spices does not produce much wastage.”

Common mistakes are adding too much or too little of certain spices, making the dish too hot or very chilli, according to Yee. “The solution is to get a good recipe and follow it carefully.”

For Yee, the virtues of curry include it having a good shelf-life and its ability to be cooked in bulk. “Sometimes, we pre-portion our curries and vacuum-seal them in bags. This gives us instantly ready meals to serve – just reheat them in boiling water or microwave! But, I prefer to cook fresh, using what ingredients we have. This eliminates any wastage.”

Aussie versus Indian curries

So, how do Aussie curries stack up with the authentic Indian versions? Pallai from Matso’s says: “The only difference between the curries in India and the dishes we get in Australia is that we get very limited varieties over here, because Australians know only a few popular Indian dishes.”

Pallai adds: “The menu replicated in most restaurants is a tiny section of the Indian cuisine. Back in India, we have a lot more dishes on the menu.”

Showcasing the varied regions of India can help extend the local palate, according to Mahadevan. “At my two Indian restaurants, Abhi’s and Aki’s, we showcase the diversity of regional Indian cuisine, using modern Australian ingredients. This means no overly rich, heavy curries – rather light, fragrant and fresh dishes – and the flavours are addictive to keep clients coming back again and again!”

Listen to that… that’s the sound of the cash register ringing as the curry enthusiasts rush in to your venue!

Pasta  satisfies three big requirements for the bistro and the customer: it’s cheap, fast and versatile.

Pasta is pure pleasure for those who love it. And it stacks up as a favourite with everyone from children to seniors. Originally from Italy – or so the story goes – it’s a favourite not just in Europe, but worldwide.

With the highest per capita consumption of 28.1 kg per year, Italy leads the world of pasta eaters, according to a recent survey from the Union of Organizations of Manufacturers of Pasta Products of the EU. Venezuela is second at 13.2 kg, followed by Tunisia at 11.7 kg, Greece at 10 kg, Switzerland 9.5 kg and the United States at 9 kg.

Australia is well down the list at just 4 kg each per year, but pasta is rapidly becoming a favourite, both for eating out and home cooking.

The reasons? Economy, speed, nutrition and flavour.

Cheap, fast and versatile

Pasta is economical and quick to prepare. It’s low in fat and sodium and rich in complex carbohydrates. For diners seeking flavour and substance, partnerships of pasta and protein deliver the goods. For bistro operators, main-dish pasta meal can be prepared in 20 minutes or less for a few dollars a serving.

BISTRO spoke with two head chefs: Santo C Manuele from Stella Blue – a traditional Italian restaurant on Sydney’s Northern Beaches and  Ben Wrigley from the Provincial Hotel  – an eclectic mix of French and Italian cuisine in Fitzroy, Melbourne, for their take on pasta dishes.

In the Provincial’s kitchen everything is done from scratch. “We make all of our pasta onsite as the advantages of this show on the plate,” says Ben Wrigley. “Good home-style flavours and fresh is best.

“We get the flavours we’re after when making our own sauce. My team of chefs gets to play around with flavours and our customers get to see the results of good work from the Provincial kitchen.”

What about labour costs? What about customers wary of expensive meals in a tight, cash-strapped economy? “Now, more than ever, you need to keep existing customers happy. Economical and creative dishes are a surefire way to keep them coming back,” he says, adding that many in hospitality overlook this very important point.

He agrees that his labour cost is “a touch higher than normal”, but says that a well-trained kitchen team leaves very little or no wastage. “I always look after my staff. To have a good team in the kitchen takes a lot of time in training. We have very little staff rotation. This allows us to use all the produce we buy in a very efficient way.”

Fresh produce is put to work straight away. To stretch food dollars further, offcuts of fish, meat and poultry find their way onto the plate in creative combinations as pasta, ravioli, confits, etc. “We make our own broths too,” Ben says. “It’s a very important component of consistency and quality food.”

Stella Blue’s Santo C. Manuele agrees that creative and fast thinking in using fresh produce is a must for a good chef. He emphasises the importance of communication between kitchen and wait staff in promoting the daily specials.

“Working as a chef in a suburban family restaurant, you’re always looking for ways to save money,” he says. “I use my offcuts straight away, while they are still fresh and great quality. If I can work it into some great pasta special and let the waiters know, we will sell maybe 10 or 15 plates. Customers like variety; also this way you are serving the freshest produce too.”

He totally agrees with Ben Wrigley about making sauces onsite. “All of my sauces are made in my kitchen from scratch. Preparing sauce is quite personal – for example, a basic tomato sauce will vary from chef to chef.  I like to have a lot of control over my sauces.”

Santo prides himself on his creative approach even to good old, possibly boring, (though not when Santo makes it) Bolognaise Sauce. “My Bolognese is a little more involved than most in the ingredients and the cooking time,” he says, an understatement, as you’ll see in his recipe.

Tips for using pasta

Santo uses a mixture of all the types of pasta, and doesn’t say which is best. “I buy fresh pasta, dried pasta and I also make my own. Being from southern Italian heritage I was brought up on dried pasta, and only saw my grandmother making fresh macaroni around the festive seasons –  Easter, Christmas, Mothers’Day and Fathers’Day. Yes, even on Mother’s day, the mums had to cook!”

He provided some tips to make preparing and serving a pasta selection smoother:

Know your limitations: don’t jump into using all fresh pasta if you have only been using dried pasta. Fresh pasta cooks very quickly, so timing is critical.

Cooling cooked dry pasta before service is very important, to prevent it overcooking.  Drain the pasta to cool it, or it will keep absorbing water and become soft. The best way to cool pasta is to rest it on a cold bench (marble if possible).

Arrange your menu so that some dishes are easy to assemble – e.g. pasta with ragout, or an oven-baked dish such as stuffed pasta with a prepared sauce.

BISTRO asked Santo for his signature pasta dish. “I don’t really have a signature pasta dish, but I do have lots of pasta dishes that I’ve made over the years,” he says.

“For example, my Crespelle con Zucca, Ricotta e Salvio Burro (crepes filled with pumpkin, ricotta with a burnt butter and sage sauce). This dish takes pasta to a new and different level – the ingredients are quite common, but the dish is something very different!”

Santo and Ben agree the optimum number of pasta dishes on the menu is around four to six. Both restaurants have two pasta specials on the menu. This not only helps the kitchen to optimise the use of fresh produce, but also acts as a trial for new pasta dishes coming onto
the menu.

“We will give a dish a good couple of weeks trial on our large specials board and gather feedback from our customers,” Ben says.

“We review our menu at the Provincial three times a year with updated recipes, but many of the recipes that we’ve had for a number of years have been very successful.” One of these favourites is the Wood-fired Slow Roasted Lamb Shank and Red Pepper Ragout tossed with Baby Spinach, House Made Pappardelle Finished with Shaved Parmesan.

“This has been on the tables at the Provincial for a few years now and fits in with the warm ambience of the restaurant throughout the colder months,” Ben says.

“Great comfort food to go alongside good wine and the open fireplace. Very Provincial,”
he adds.

Rather than making an expensive ingredient – fresh spanner crab – the main attraction, Ben integrates it into a pasta recipe, Fresh Spanner Crab, Spring Onion and Fresh Tomato tossed Linguine in a Chervil and Saffron Cream Sauce. While creating a posh and luxurious dish, the recipe stretches the food dollar even further, and at the same time is the fastest pasta dish on the Provincial menu.

Santo at Stella Blue likes to develop a close relationship with his regular customers. “I like to give people an experience, which they cannot get anywhere else,” he says. “With our regulars, I will get to know their taste. Then, when they are dining again I will offer to cook something for them, not from the menu, but something totally different.”

Frying fare from the sea requires the right kind of oil and cooking technique.

The mouth waters just thinking about it… Seafood – fresh out of the deep fryer. Intensely hot, crisp and abundant with flavour. Mmmm…

Just think of savouring the taste of the fragile, crunchy crust against the moist interior… Yum! No other cooking method around creates such a satisfying and distinct contrast amid mouthfuls than this type of dish.

Particularly ideal for deep-frying are lean, white-fleshed fillets, shrimp squid and baby octopus. Delicious!

So, how to prepare seafood for frying? First off, you’ll need to coat the seafood with something that produces a crust-like flour, such as bread crumbs, a light flour or water batter.

The difference? Flour results in a subtle crust, which is barely noticeable – hence, you will taste more of the fish. Breadcrumbs and batter provide a more obvious, crunchy outer coating. And, tempura batter makes the crunchiest coating of all.

Tempura’s entirely different from the other flour-based, deep-fry batters. While the others are mixed until perfectly smooth and then given a rest to allow the gluten to relax before frying, tempura batter is mixed together at the very last minute. This means the ingredients are just barely blended together – therefore, containing lumps. It’s also done so quickly that the gluten in the flour is never activated. The taste itself is very distinct!

Some species or flesh types of seafood are more suited to a particular cooking method than others. Generally, species that have high moisture or oil levels match dry-heat cooking methods and microwaving. Species that are low in moisture or oil, better complement moist, heating methods, such as frying.

Deep-frying suits most types of finfish, sealing the delicate flavour and moistness of the flesh in a coating of crumbs or batter. Plus, it’s a quick method and convenient, when whipping up large quantities. Specially-processed seafood can also be deep-fried from frozen.

Seafood most commonly used for deep-frying include white-fleshed finfish, very small whole finfish, plate-sized whole finfish, and most cuts of finfish – especially fillets or pieces. As well, scallops and squid are particularly popular crumbed and deep-fried.

The good oil

So, what’s the best oil to use when frying seafood? Well, vegetable oils are recommended. These are made from a variety of plant products, such as nuts, seed and grains – each with their own distinctive colour, flavour and cooking properties.

They may come from a single plant source or a blend of numerous varieties. A blended vegetable oil typically contains soybean oil, canola oil and or sunflower oil.  Oils are described as being either polyunsaturated or monounsaturated and are liquid at room temperature.  A fat described as being saturated is usually solid at room temperature.

‘Saturated’ fat molecules consist of carbon chains with no double bonds, making them very stable to oxidation.  ‘Monounsaturated’ oil molecules have carbon chains with only one double bond.  ‘Polyunsaturated’ oil molecules have carbon chains with multiple double bonds, and are very unstable oils as each double bond is a site which can easily be oxidised.

From a health perspective, monounsaturated (eg canola, olive oil) & polyunsaturated (sunflower and cottonseed) oils are referred to as ‘good fats’ as they help reduce the risk of heart disease and diabetes.

Top tips for deep-frying

Away use good quality oil.

Ensure that the thermostat works correctly – and that you heat the oil slowly to the correct temperature.

The ideal frying temperature for battered and breaded fish, prawns and scampi is 180C.  Potato chips fresh (blenching) 170C, frozen (frying) 185C.

Watch the temperature to make sure the oil doesn’t spray on copper or brass.

Use the correct food-to-oil ratio of 1:6.

Top up your fryer regularly to the load level.

Prepare food correctly, including pieces in uniform sizes and without excess moisture, crumbs and batter on them.

Don’t mix different food types – a big no-no!

Don’t salt food before frying or  over the fryer.

Skim the fryer oil’s surface regularly – and filter it daily. Plus, keep the oil covered after use. Reduce the heat to between 90C and 120C when you’re not using it.

Keep the fryer and equipment clean, thoroughly washing away the detergent and drying it.

Recognise that darkened, foaming, smoking or smelling oil indicates the end of its life – and time for new oil!

Source: Peerless Foods.

Chewing the fat on trans fats

Trans fats is the predominant fat found in dairy and meat products – it raises the LDL (bad) cholesterol levels and lowers the HDL (good) cholesterol levels.

Trans fatty acids are also found in manufactured food items – helping to increase their shelf life – such as, some varieties of fried foods, pies, biscuits and confectionary. As well, trans fats are in certain cooking oils, which have undergone an industrial, super-heating process, strengthening the time they can be used for frying.

There is a global trend to ban trans fats being industrially-produced. Because, of course, trans fats also occur naturally in foods, such as meat and dairy. So, it is not possible to ban the fats entirely from the landscape. Most health experts believe that it’s more sensible to aim to restrict or minimise these fats in our diet. Hence, a ban instead on the use of industrial-produced trans fatty acids is a more realistic goal.

Bans or restrictions are already in place overseas. In the US, for example, a ban on trans fats has been placed on restaurants in the Big Apple. Boston and Chicago are considering similar moves, while California Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger had it signed into law. In a media release, Schwarzenegger declared the US state of California “free of trans fatty acids”.

The European Union is also on the move with similar plans. In November, new laws were introduced in the UK, requiring Suffolk eateries to disclose the caloric content of and remove artificial trans fat. As early as 2004, Denmark also banned trans fats – in reality, a limit of two per cent imposed on imported foods and Denmark-manufactured fare.

Here in Australia, there is a trend to do likewise, with state politicians and local councils leading the charge. Sydney’s Kogarah Council has moved to ban the use of synthetic trans fatty acids (trans fats) in new food outlets.

Greens MP John Kaye is one such state politician, who believes it is now time to act. Kaye says: “Trans fatty acids are unnecessary – they carry no additional nutritional value and they could easily be eradicated. The cost of eradication is relatively low. The benefit is in saving lives.”

And, in November, the NSW government announced changes to menu labelling in fast-food chains, like McDonald’s, KFC and Pizza Hut, forcing them to display prominent information about the content of kilojoules, saturated fats, trans fats and salt.

The new food labelling law, introduced into Parliament by the Keneally government, gives NSW fast-food outlets a year, as of February, to comply, before heavy fines kick in for breaches. Labelling aside, when it comes to an actual ban, however, imposing one appears to be problematic to enforce. Anne-Marie Mackintosh, the Nutrient Standard and Regulatory Affairs Manager of The National Heart Foundation, has her concerns. “The problem with banning or restricting trans fats is an auditing problem – to prove trans fat content food needs to be analysed – you just can’t tell from taste and smell.”

Mackintosh continues: “Like all laboratory procedures, it is a costly process. So, widespread enforcement is not only costly, but is complicated in a whole range of logistical ways.”

Still, in many overseas countries, it is mandatory to declare trans fats. Declarations have been in place in the US, Canada and Korea for some time.

Companies like General Mills in the US, which markets brands like Betty Crocker and Cheerios, as well as Latina pasta in Oz, have even reformulated products to improve their health profiles, including reducing trans fats.

Currently, in Australia, it is not mandatory to declare trans fats across the board. While organisations like The National Heart Foundation are lobbying the government to ‘get with the programme’, it seems to be slow-going.

In November, the Food Standards Australia New Zealand (FSANZ) was criticised for being “too heavily influenced by the industry” following its annual report’s release. This revealed no regulatory action would be taken on consumer issues raised in the past year – including that of trans fat labelling across the board.

Following the report, Choice Senior Food Policy Officer Clare Hughes told the Sunday Telegraph: “We don’t rate them highly as a consumer protection agency.” FSANZ claimed to prefer non-regulatory, industry measures and said Aussie intake of trans fats was “quite low.”

The National Heart Foundation though has been a strong advocate in the trans fat arena and its successful Tick for Health programme requires participating manufacturers to declare the fats in packaging.

Oils, such as Formula 40 Hi Oleic, Tuscan Blend, Sunoil and Crisco, have all earned The National Heart Foundation’s tick of approval. A tick-approved food means it is a healthier choice when compared to similar foods. The tick must be earned by proving it is a genuinely healthier choice. Regular auditing ensures the strict tick standards are being maintained.

However, the Food Standards Code of Australia has “triggers” that go in part to having a transparent declaration system. Any claims of nutrition content on packaging must also declare trans fat content.

According to Mackintosh from The National Heart Foundation, while hysteria and publicity surrounding the trans fat debate is a good thing in raising awareness, it also takes away from the spotlight of health issues relating to consumption of other unhealthy oils.

“It is great that we have a higher level of awareness of the dangers of trans fats,” Mackintosh says. “And, it seems, governments around the world are shifting to a positive position in the eradication of manufactured trans fats. [But] let’s not forget the health issues relating to consumption of other unhealthy oils, such as saturated fats in this country.” Food for thought.

Champagne – or sparkling white wine, if it’s not from the so-named French region – is a worthy addition to a restaurant’s wine list for many reasons.

Firstly, it can help create a memorable wine list. Plus, it can offer a point of difference from competitors, help market your venue as a place to “celebrate”, and help reap profit.

Sophie Alexander, the brand manager of VOK Beverages, which offers sparkling varieties such as the Queen Adelaide Brut NV, says, if a restaurant wants to market itself as a place of celebration and promote joyful memories, then a sparkling wine is essential for their wine list. “A special toast with a popular sparkling wine will leave a lasting impression on patrons.”

There’s a reason the term, champagne, also refers to anything luxurious!

Sparkling for business

John Reid, the Production Manager at the Hunter Valley’s Petersons Champagne House, says sparkling wine is a growth segment in a relatively stable domestic market. “Sales growth in sparkling and sparkling-style wines continues to grow faster than the overall market… The growth in sparkling consumption has most likely been driven by, one, new consumers, and two, more frequent consumption by existing drinkers.”

Palates have changed, according to Reid, and restaurants would do well to ride the wave. “The popularity of pre-mixed drinks over the last 10 years, since GST was slashed on these, led to an explosion of products into the market. Many younger drinkers had their first experience of drinks with these products. As their tastes have matured, one of the stepping stones to wine has been sparkling wine. Over the last five years, many new products have gained popularity due to the approachable, fruit-driven styles.”

And, the general consumer is also enjoying sparkling wines as a social drink rather than just for celebrations, Reid says. “The consumption occasions for many existing sparkling drinkers has also increased. Once seen as a ‘special occasion’ drink, it is now being served on most social occasions. The quality of product and pricing has helped this, whilst single serve packaging – 200ml – has also made it more convenient.”

Restaurants need to consider stocking products that customers see as their product of choice, according to Reid – which is increasingly sparkling wines. “Restaurants should also be aware of who and what influences wine purchases on-premise. If sparkling wines are preferred by women, who [then] is choosing the wine style at restaurants?”

Australia vs. France

When comparing Australian sparklings with French champagnes, Reid says value for money can be measured in many different ways.

“French champagnes have a large component of tradition, heritage and prestige in their price. They are truly unique products, which are only made in a relatively small area in the north of France, around Epernay and Riems,” Reid explains. “The cost of production in these areas is high and the traditional methods by which champagne must be made add to these costs. Whilst the wines are varied amongst the champagne houses and they all have their own style, the overarching style is similar for the whole region.”

In contrast, Australian sparkling wine covers a vast range of prices, styles, growing regions and consumers, Reid says. “The diversity of products translates to a product for all tastes. From the classically-produced varieties and methods, we have wines, which compare favourably with anything produced anywhere.”

While Reid says there is still a large swing towards traditional European tipples on restaurant wine lists, Aussie sparklings are slowly lifting their profile. “As more and more Australians diverge their palate preference, we are seeing more appreciation of the Australian style of sparkling. Australian consumers are focusing on supporting the Australian producers, due largely to the more economical price comparison and quality available.”

Consumer education

The diversity of sparkling wines means that it can be difficult for consumers to understand all the products available. “The method I can best recommend is more practice – try as many as you can!” Reid enthuses. “To understand the differences in quality and price, visit your local specialist producer to understand the different ways many of the products are produced.”

Areas that produce great Aussie sparkling wines, according to Reid, include Tasmania and the southern cooler climates, with a “comparison often made with fine French champagne”. Adding: “In the more niche area of [NSW’s] Hunter Valley, sparkling wines have [also] flourished, with both sparkling Semillons and Blanc de Blanc chardonnay-styles showing great quality.”

As well, large tracts of Australia produce quality sparkling wines for the mass market, according to Reid. “Newer wine styles see fruit from irrigated areas and Queensland being used and this is particularly the case for Moscato-style wines.”

Red wines from many areas, if handled correctly, also have the potential to make complex and flavoursome sparkling reds, according to Reid. “The traditional red areas of the Barossa Valley, Central Victoria, Mudgee and the Hunter Valley can produce great sparkling red wine.”

Plus, the red-hued sparklings provide the potential to appeal to a broader market. “These wines will tempt many and win hearts and taste buds of non-traditional, sparkling wine drinkers,” Reid enthuses.

Cheers to that!

Who would have thought then that the popular dessert staple – ice cream – could actually sweeten your bottom line and offer something truly unique?

Opting to make use of a boutique ice cream producer can be beneficial for restaurants and bistros in providing something individualised.

Nice Cream is a boutique ice cream producer, which supplies top Sydney restaurants. A Nice spokesperson says the advantages of using small producers are various. “They use traditional methods, like old Italian churns. And, while commercial suppliers use a lot of artificial preservatives, colouring and additives, with handmade ice cream, you can taste the difference.”

As well, the boutique producers can make specific flavours for chefs, including reflecting seasonal trends, like cinnamon or green apple in winter and blood orange and sorbets in summer. “[The ice creams] look and taste unique and restaurants can market them as their own,” the spokesperson says.

Michael Ryan is the proprietor of another boutique producer, Queensland’s Gourmet Ice Cream Products. It supplies to everyone from five-star hotel restaurants to neighbourhood cafes and takeaway outlets. “We produce our frozen delights in a small batch facility, using higher-grade ingredients to partner with chefs, who would normally make their own products,” Ryan enthuses. “The density, creaminess and taste achieved are at a ‘higher spec’ than mass producers.”

Flexibility in quality and flavour selections and combinations is an advantage, according to Ryan. “Small batch production runs can run as low as 15 litres of product and our ‘overrun’ levels can be much lower.”

Flavour combinations for Gourmet Ice Cream include lavender and white pepper and fig and mascarpone, as well as the standard, popular flavours.

“There are a number of customers we work with in providing their ‘contract flavours’ for seasonal menus,” Ryan continues. “Our standard menu is quite vast and, therefore, we can normally satisfy most customers with it. But, offering that specialised supply excites our creative team, who love the challenge… [And] it gives personality to a restaurant and a menu.”

Recent examples of custom-made flavours for the brand include a pink grapefruit and green peppercorn sorbet for a restaurant chef’s Valentine’s Day menu. “So, when you bit through, you got the beautiful, fresh flavour of grapefruit and then bit into a whole peppercorn and got the hot sensation,” Ryan enthuses.

Other personalised requests have included an olive oil ice cream, which was used to top a steak dish, and a sauvignon blanc sorbet, whereby Ryan says “the chef was quite adamant that we had to bring out the full fruit flavours of the wine.”

Vanilla is, of course, a big seller, but Ryan says, being a small producer, they can offer a whopping 11 varieties of it. “These can suit the different flavour profiles that a chef is trying to achieve,” he says. For example, if a chef wants to team the ice cream with a sweet apple pie, they may want to go for a subtler vanilla flavour.

Ice cream also has a long shelf life – of about two years – which makes good business sense, Ryan says.

Plus, he believes 80 per cent of sales come from 20 per cent of a venue’s offerings. “Each restaurant wants and needs to position themselves differently to the next one and create a different and a preferred position,” Ryan explains. “Getting a balanced menu that attracts all tastes is the objective to increase and maintain patronage. Seasonal flavour changes are a way of achieving these goals.”

One local venue also extolling the virtues of ice cream in a unique way is The Mean Fiddler in Sydney’s Rouse Hill. It has a Baskin-Robbins ice creamery on-site, making the venue a drawcard for families – particularly on Sundays, when it runs kids’ activities too, like face painting, jumping castles and a petting zoo.

So, it seems, offering unique desserts can mean sweet success for a venue.

Going the frozen option can actually help a kitchen’s budget – with the veggies being able to be stored for longer, meaning less wastage – and seasonality can be ignored.

Think veggies, plucked fresh from the farm and delivered straight to your door, are best? Not always.

Most vegetables in frozen and canned form are just as nutritious as fresh produce – in fact, in some cases, they provide even more nutrients…which is good news for the kitchen, being so convenient!

Fresh veggies can actually be exposed to conditions, which can cause changes in quality – for example, the length of time and the temperature during transport and storage, affecting nutrient content. Fresh produce usually spends about three to seven days in storage before being dished up. And, of course, the longer it’s stored, the more vitamins the produce loses.

Alternatively, frozen veggies are harvested at their peak – snap frozen and stored within hours, meaning their nutrients are “locked in” and further losses are minimised.

Susan Anderson, the national director of Healthy Weight at the Heart Foundation, gives frozen veggies the big tick. “Frozen vegetables are a terrific choice and we’re very happy to recommend them. They’re just as nutritious as fresh – in some cases, more so, since the freezing process takes place soon after harvesting.”

Anderson continues: “Frozen vegetables are popular with home cooks and chefs, because they’re so convenient and there’s no wastage.  The preparation is done and you only use what you need.” All pluses!

Of course, before freezing though, veggies do undergo blanching – or scalding – which does lead to some nutrient loss, particularly Vitamin C and folate. Though, in general, these losses are no greater than during cooking. Plus, some nutrients, like carotene (a compound converted to vitamin A in the body), may actually be better preserved when frozen, because packaging protects the veggies from the light.

In a study by Heinz Wattie’s Australasia, Frozen Vegetables – Do They Count?, the Vitamin C content of fresh and frozen spinach, green beans and brussels sprouts was measured at consumption stage. In each case, the Vitamin C levels were found to be highest in the cooked, frozen vegetables. This was said to be due to more uniform maturity of the veggies, minimum time from harvest to freezing, and the shorter time required to cook them, compared to when fresh.

Another recent study by the New Zealand Institute for Crop and Food Research showed that three-month-old frozen peas contained twice as much Vitamin C as three-day-old fresh peas. Wow!

As well, consumer group Choice says supermarket produce may not be as fresh as customers think, with technological advances making it possible for growers and distributors to keep veggies looking good for up to a few weeks.

There’s also the kitchen storage issue – and the impact on the hip pocket for venues. Choice Australia last year found that many frozen vegetables retained most of their nutritional value for up to a year in a freezer at -18 C, while fresh produce stored in the fridge at 4 ⁰C for one week lost nutritional value in such a time – particularly green veggies, like broccoli, beans and spinach.

Not all are convinced though that frozen is the way to go. Fresh fruit and veg marketer Perfection Fresh Australia still firmly believes “fresh is best”, according to their spokesperson. “Because it is cooked straight from the field and delivered to wholesalers and supermarkets within 24 hours. We process thousands of pallets each day, so we are motivated to get the produce to its destination as fast as possible.”

The spokesperson continues: “We specialise in broccoli, cauliflower, lettuce and other leaf products, where presentation is essential and freshness is clear to see. So, there is an urgency to get the product on shelves as fast as possible. The perception that produce just lays around for days is absolute nonsense!”

It seems there are arguments for both frozen and fresh produce. But, there are some advantages to frozen produce, in some instances, that chefs should consider – such as, that most veggies are seasonal and the only way to provide certain produce year-round is to either buy expensive imports or use more affordable, frozen alternatives.

As well, using frozen produce means you are limiting your reliance on suppliers – particularly of benefit if you are operating your restaurant or hotel in a more geographically isolated part of Australia.

As for the taste test though in fresh versus frozen? The jury’s still out!

General thawing tips

• Some frozen foods are better thawed before cooking, while others can be cooked straightaway – just make sure you follow manufacturers’ instructions if using commercially frozen fare.
• Where possible, thaw food in the fridge. It allows the ice crystals to break down slowly and, thus, won’t affect the food’s texture.
• Food that has been thawed in the fridge may be re-frozen, so long as this occurs within 48 hours. Still, if any food appears discoloured or has a whiffy odour, discard it immediately. It may contain harmful bacteria.

White or Blue Borage

The whole plant is edible, and the leaves and flowers taste similar to fresh cucumber. Just lightly chop it and add to salads.

Cardoon
The fronds of this fern-like Italian plant have attractive silvery foliage. It’s in the artichoke family, and the leaves are bundled together to protect them from the sun and keep them tender. You devein the plant’s ribs, much like pulling strings from a stalk of celery. “Then you smash and pulverize the ribs enough to break down the fibers,” Gerace explained. “You eggwash them, dip them in breadcrumbs and seasoning with Parmesan cheese, and pan-fry them with olive oil and garlic. They taste similar to fried artichoke hearts.”

Chervil

It looks like parsley, but the flavor is sweeter. Often referred to as the “gourmet’s parsley,” chervil tastes mildly of licorice combined with pepper imparting certain freshness to a dish. Chervil being member of the parsley family, displays curly, dark green leaves with it’s elusive anise flavor. Chervil (also known as cicily and sweet cicily) is one of the main ingredients in fine herbs (a mixture of herbs consisting of chervil, tarragon, chive, and parsley) . Chervil has an ability to enharnce the flavors a the fine herb. Suitable for use in salads, soups, casseroles, roast vegetables, chicken, white fish and egg dishes. Unlike parsley this herb loses it’s taste once boiled, so best used in the last moment to preserve flavor.

Espazote

Popular in Latin-American cooking, especially bean dishes. “You’ll recognize it when you smell it,” Gerace said. “It’s usually in black beans or pintos, or chopped and used fresh in tacos, fajitas and burritos.”

Kaffir Lime

O’kay it’s technically not an herb, but instead of using the fruit you use the leaves. Pronounced kaff-EE, this is the flavor in a majority of popular Thai dishes. “This type of lime has lots of extra scent, extra essence,” Gerace said.

Mexican Mint Marigold

An almost equal replacement for licorice-flavored French Tarragon, but Mexican Mint Marigold tolerates heat much better. “I see cooking shows on T.V. where they’re saying they’re using French Tarragon, but if you look closely you’ll see the leaves are much too big to be tarragon,” Gerace said. “It’s actually Mexican Mint Marigold.”

Nasturtium

Leaves and flowers of the nasturtium plant have a peppery, radish/horseradish bite. Add them to salads for an intriguing burst of flavor.
Serve on salads and other green vegetables to add flavour and colour. Pickled Nasturtium seeds are a good source of Vitamin C and taste a bit like capers. Soak green nasturtium seeds in salted water for two days. Drain and soak them in fresh water for another day. Drain once. Place the soaked seeds in a jar and fill with boiled vinegar. After a few days they are ready to eat. Delicious as a condiment to fish.

Salad Burnet

This is another cucumbery taste that’s also an attractive landscape item due to its sylvan foliage. Add it to soups, salads and fish dishes for an interesting flavor layer.

Sweet Lavender

This is not the Spanish Lavender commonly used to scent soaps and perfumes. Whole sprigs of French Sweet Lavender are used to flavor brown sauces, gravies and savory meats such as lamb, pork, beef and wild game. “Or put a spring in your lemonade,” Gerace suggests, “and it adds a whole other scent.”

Vietnamese Coriander

As the days becomes longer cilantro will turn to seed – a process called bolting – and become coriander. Leaves of the shade-loving Vietnamese Coriander are an exceptional replacement for cilantro. The herb has a smell very similar to common coriander, but with a clear lemon citrus note. It is closely related to water pepper, but with far less pungency.