Murray Smith, Head Chef of Lion Hotel

murray lion hotel

Murray Smith, Head Chef of Lion Hotel

BISTRO speaks to Murray Smith, Head Chef of Lion Hotel, South Australia.

Where were you working previously to The Lion Hotel? Please explain your background and work history.

I was the Head Chef at the Oxford Hotel in North Adelaide for two years, before that I travelled and worked overseas for almost three years. I worked in London for 12 months as a Sous Chef at the St Georges Hotel, then in Bermuda at the Coral Beach Tennis Club and Resort also as a Sous Chef. Prior to travelling I worked in Perth, Broome and Adelaide during my apprenticeship.

How did you come about to work as Head Chef at The Lion Hotel? Please explain the journey.

After travelling overseas, I returned to Adelaide to join owners Tim Gregg and Andrew Svencis as they transformed The Oxford Hotel into a vibrant, modern and contemporary hotel, working as Head Chef for two years. When they opened The Lion Hotel in December 1997 I moved with them as Head Chef and the rest is history.

Travelling and working in such diverse places exposed me to a variety of different cuisines, cultures and working environments so you can’t help but be influenced in some way by these experiences. It might be a sight or sound or fragrance that instantly takes you back to your travelling days and then inspires you to incorporate something into your next menu.

How long have you been at The Lion?

In April it was 11 years since I first joined The Lion. The industry has changed a lot during this time and obviously as a Chef it’s been important to keep abreast of these changes. Customers dining expectations and variety of dining occasions change as people age, and dining trends come and go so it’s important to always stay focused.

What (if any) changes did you implement at the restaurant?

Prior to The Lion opening, the business had been closed and the building unoccupied so there was plenty of opportunity to make a fresh start within the rich architectural heritage of the original brewery/hotel complex. As the owners also operated The Oxford, there were certain expectations on the level and quality of service.  I think one of the keys to overcoming this hurdle was to build a stable team of Chefs around me for long-term success. Of course you still need to get the mix of menu, price, service and ambience right, but without a good stable team behind you, it makes the proposition much more vulnerable.

Define the style of cuisine at The Lion.

Modern Australian.

What customers do you cater for? While it is now an iconic dining restaurant in Adelaide it is nevertheless a hotel. Do you have several markets? How do you cater for such variance?

I think this is part of the appeal of The Lion. You can drop by for a coffee under the verandah, or hold your annual conference in one of our event rooms. With seven function rooms, a bar, an award winning restaurant, a casual dining area, a restaurant and a gaming room, we appeal to such a broad audience.  Every space has a different feel and use, and yet we deliver the same commitment to customer service and quality across all facets of the Hotel.

We have a dedicated section of the kitchen that focuses solely on Functions and Events, so even if we have 200 people in the underground tunnels for a 21st or a black tie, five-course dinner for 110 in the Jerningham Room, we can still remain totally focussed on a full restaurant on a busy Saturday night.

I think the appeal also lies in the fact that you can have breakfast in Express in the morning, have an a la carte lunch or dinner in the restaurant, then move to the bar for a great night of live music all in the one venue that is right in the middle of North Adelaide.

Obviously when we plan our seasonal menu changes we ensure that there is always a diverse selection of food available – whether it be bar snacks, Lion Express or the restaurant. We also cater for people with differing dietary requirements such as gluten free, vegetarian and lactose free menu’s so we’ve obviously responded to the changing expectations of our clientele.

If you opened your own restaurant can you describe it to us?

It depends what day you ask me! But it would be a contemporary space with very relaxed atmosphere and an emphasis on quality ingredients cooked in a simple but technical way and always trying to showcase as much local produce as possible.

How do you keep your skills up? Do you eat out? Travel? Study?

Our latest educational trip was to Tasmania with our Sous Chef, two second year apprentices and one of the owners, Tim Gregg who is Tasmanian. One of the places we visited was Cape Grim on the north westernmost tip of the Tasmanian, renowned for the world’s most pure air. We source some of our beef from here, so it was fantastic to see firsthand, where our produce is reared and to appreciate the commitment to quality and the enthusiasm and professionalism of our suppliers. These sort of trips provide so much inspiration when you arrive back in the kitchen.

I also try to eat out as much as I can, but it’s not always possible with two young children. We do travel a bit with the kids and eat as much varied food as we can, which is a real education for the whole family, and give me the opportunity to see what other establishments are doing.

Name the chefs you admire and why?

Charlie Trotter – balance of flavours.

Gordon Ramsey – demands perfection.

Heston Blumenthal – pushes the boundaries and makes his diners think.
Jamie Oliver – makes cooking a total experience with his fun approach.

What are the unique challenges that face a Head Chef in Adelaide?

Keeping up with the changing marketplace is always a challenge, but this is what keeps you on your toes and makes you strive to continually perform at your best. In difficult economic times such as the GFC it’s been a balancing act trying to keep the business profitable, and creating seasonal menus that are exciting and appealing to both our regular clientele and new customers, and that’s just front of house!

Behind the scenes we have a terrific, enthusiastic team who want to learn – and we want to teach them, to inspire and foster their passion for food and creativity, and expose them to the other side of running a successful business so they consider the environmental, ethical and economic effects that can that impact their decisions in the kitchen. This helps to create a sense of worth and family which gives our staff a feeling of belonging and helps to mitigate the steady exodus that can exist in this industry.

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