Back in black

It’s not only on the catwalk in the US, where inky hues are in vogue. It’s also being seen in what’s being plated up in New York – and the trend’s taking hold here.

IN NEW YORK

Black garlic. Pitch-black cloves add a touch of the dark side to the sheep’s milk ricotta, fava beans and truffle oil crostini at the Smoke Jazz and Supper Club in Harlem. The garlic turns black courtesy of a fermentation process, is soft inside – and doesn’t have the unfortunate effect on one’s breath as traditional garlic! The darker variety has long been used in Asian cooking, despite the recent US buzz.

Black trumpet mushrooms. The inky-coloured fungi have been added to the lobster and sweetcorn bisque at the Oak Room at New York’s Plaza Hotel. Similar to chanterelles, the mushrooms come from specialty food purveyors.

Black walnuts.The Klee Brasserie in the Big Apple dresses its Muscovy duck paté with black walnuts. The darker nuts – said to be more nutty and mild than the usual ones – are also used in a walnut cake, with a cream cheese ganache.

Black chickpeas. These Italian legumes “pretty up” a double-cut, Colorado-grilled lamb chop dish at Delmonico’s Restaurant in lower Manhattan. Smaller than regular chickpeas, the black chickpeas have a slightly different taste, but are mostly about presentation.

AT HOME

Black garlic is also proving a hot ingredient in Oz, going on sale locally here in August last year. Movida Bar De Tapas in Melbourne has used the dark ingredient in a dish with charcoaled Berkshire pork fillet.

Black trumpet mushrooms have also been spied on the menu at the Sails on the Bay restaurant in the Melbourne suburb of Elwood – used in a sauté with a roast loin of lamb dish.

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