Watershed moment – Chef of the Year Daniel Fountain

Last year, Fountain was named the AHA National Chef of the Year for his former role as head chef at Darling Harbour’s Watershed Hotel (now, he manages no less than seven venues for J&J O’Brien).

Daniel Fountain started in the trade as a kitchen hand – or, as he says, “a dish pig, as us chefs call them”. He adds: “That’s where most good chefs start.” This statement couldn’t be any truer in his case. After 20-plus years in the biz, he now has the prestigious title of executive chef for the J&J O’Brien hoteliers group.
J&J O’Brien owns a number of stunning bars, restaurants and venues in Sydney, including The Belvedere Hotel, Jordons Seafood Restaurant, The Watershed Hotel, and the luxe Blue Diamond Charters (the latter being a stylish, 62-foot cruiser, available for exclusive charters including breakfast, lunch and dinner cruises).
Last year, Fountain was named the AHA National Chef of the Year for his former role as head chef at Darling Harbour’s Watershed Hotel (now, he manages no less than seven venues for J&J O’Brien).
It’s all a long way from his start in the trade, training at TAFE NSW’s Sydney Institute East Sydney College and undertaking an apprenticeship with Black Knight Catering.
Fountain has been the group executive chef at J&J O’Brien for more than a year now and has also previously worked for the ANA Hotel Sydney and The Grace Hotel.
BISTRO spoke to him about his passion for food.
Please tell us about yourself.
I am a very hard, dedicated worker, enjoy many sporting activities, love my wine – which is why I love cooking! – and, I have to say, I love to entertain, at home or at work. I have been in the business for over 22 years.
You’re managing a few different venues. What are the challenges you have to face doing this job?
Actually, I manage seven properties, but I’m just acting on six. Time – I wish I had more time everyday! I need another day to get the work done. Every day is a new challenge – just to make sure each kitchen runs smoothly and to have the right staff is the hardest part. But, overall, each venue is so different; it’s the thrill to get them right. The adrenalin rush and the thrill of making the business run right is what keeps me going.
What dishes, in your opinion, are a ‘must’ on the pub menu, and why?
People love comfort food. That’s why it’s called comfort food – it makes the customer happy to eat it. Every venue is different, so it’s hard to keep up with trends and with people’s likes, loves, hates and dislikes. I hate serving some comfort food, but if it makes people happy, then that’s what we do!
How does the bar/pub menu differ from regular restaurant?
Well, I would have to differ on that question. I am trying hard to make pub food as good as restaurant food, but all my fellow chefs – no matter where they work – are always trying to excel to make their style of food better than the next. That’s how the trends are created.
You are looking after The Watershed Hotel in waterfront Darling Harbour and the Marlborough Hotel in artsy Newtown – very different venues in terms of location and clientele. How does this manifest on the menu?
You have to create a menu with what the customer wants and how it interacts within the area. The Watershed is very tourist-driven, while the Marlborough attracts a very local or young trade.
In your opinion, what are the common mistakes chefs make when designing a menu?
They don’t research their clientele or ask questions. Some chefs think they know it all. Myself? I am always learning and will never say I am the best chef – no one is. All chefs are good at certain things.
How often do you review the dishes on the menu?
Every day. You have to do it or you fall behind and risk the chance of losing customers.
What is the process of putting a new dish on the menu?
Talking to the whole kitchen brigade – I involve the whole team: managers, chefs, apprentices and kitchen hands. Someone will have an idea to make something better. Then, we rough draft, cost it, practice the dish until we are satisfied, and then serve it to the customer.
How do you keep food consistent across five different kitchens?
It is very hard and is a consistent nightmare but, at the end of the day, it gets done. It’s like a revolving door – each day brings a new problem to solve.
What was the last decision or change you made, where you said to yourself “well done, Daniel”?
My intuition in my kitchens is to make a family attitude amongst my team and also to make them feel wanted – they work better. Better staff morale is important. So, I would say that if my staff is happy with what they do, I am happy, and then, that keeps the boss happy.
How do you keep your skills current?
Research, talk to customers, and talk to my staff, because a lot of them are from (diverse) back grounds.
Most memorable meal last year, and why?
I was on a trip away and I love to fish. I caught a lovely bream that was about 1.2kg, so I cleaned it up and pan-fried it with some white wine, herbs and seasoning. The meat was so delicate, sweet and tasty… Oh, bugger it! Any food I eat is good ‘cause most of the time I cook it! (Yes, it’s true – a chef that cooks at home. I love it!)

BISTRO, May 2010

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